greatings from belgium,
Hi everyone,
I’m going to build my own efoil using my wingfoil material. Unfortunately, I don’t live near the sea or open water. Efoil is a fantastic alternative, and I can do this close to home.
I would buy :
Flipsky remote control VX3 pro with receiver (or VX5 is better?)
Flipsky motor 65151 (6000W, 120kV)
Flipsky (FS) ECS 6.8 150A (waterproof, not water-cooled) or 75100 or 75200 (all water-cooled)
Do I need a water-cooled ECS? How hot do these things get?
Battery: Ready-made electric bike or scooter battery pack for motors of approximately 1000W.
(I’m not going to assemble my own battery pack.)
6 parallel 48V 30Ah batteries (or 2-3-4… are they okay?) with a constant discharge current of 30A each.
Or 2 parallel 60V 20Ah batteries with a constant discharge current of 50A each.
What should I consider when buying a battery? So many options…
do i need a anti spark device?
do i need e deadmans switch?
Are all these components compatible/coordinated with each othe
about RC : On the rental efoils, I have to reactivate the remote control with a combination after every fall. If the remote control automatically deactivates after each fall ,then I don’t need a deadman’s switch?
I have been using VX5 and prefer it over VX3
Good motor choice - get round shaft for more prop selection
Some of your other choices depend on how big a waterproof box you can accommodate - dependent on board size.
Lots of builds have used 75200 and it works reliably.
Anti-spark yes but you can do that with battery cable connectors - don’t need a separate part
I don’t believe many use deadman switch - just leash your remote and train yourself to drop it when you fall - if you aren’t pulling the trigger the board stops. You can also set a short auto lock interval on VX5. Keep your build as simple as you can.
Batteries are a complicated subject -suggest more reading here to determine your requirements.
Water cooling is a good idea - there are a variety of approach’s to that here.
Prop choice is important as is your foil choice - you didn’t mention these.
The components do work together but you will have to do setup with VESC tools program.
many thanks for the reply
winter is comming and i wil get my equipment set up and hope spring wil com soon
board i have is a gong mint pro 120l (5.6’) so this must be ok for the extra box (also inflatable one from my starting days but will sell this)
mast is alvator V2 85cm alu
foils i have
front x over XXL and curve L
yes motor must be 65161 (not 151)
48V or 60V? (same price all together) i wil look arround
also was looking for chinese efoils but i think all those foils with motor are not top
and i gues that a good foil is most important about foiling (wing or engine)
also i have two foils already and would like when all my material is comaptible
love all the gong materials and to bat gong dos not have efoil maetriaal… would be fantastic…
if all go’s wel this summer next winter i wil try to build the material in a board , but i have no experience with epoxy and/or carbon. als do not understand why everybody build in on the top of the board instead of at the bottom. i think woul be more practical and you got a smooth surface to stand on
a yes the propeller als something important i gues. no experince in this. see some 4 blades, 3 blades (mostly) and the 2 blades foulding ones. alu or plastic
i read the 4 blades are for quick powerstart and 3 blades for more speed… fouldable are for use when wave riding at sea. gues i gone get myeself 2 variations later on
so the fliteprop is compatible with de 65161 , good to know tx
also terrible , all those (originale) efoil brands dos not give many info about the stuff they sell. ppff also did not know flite is compatibel with gong material
I don’t see this is the chart I posted but 120l is lots of volume for Efoil. Fliteboard largest glass board is 100l.
I use XOver L size with same motor, 75200 VESC and 10S 11P (42V max battery). I have the XL and XXL sizes but now that I know what I’m doing prefer the smallest of the three. I weigh 85kg on a 100l Fliteboard.
The beauty of Gong is you have lots of quality interchangeable parts so easy to get the setup you like without breaking the bank😉
The issue with the box on top of board design is that it’s placement can be an issue - limiting where you can stand etc. you have a relatively large board so likely won’t be a problem.
You will have some drag issues with motor wires on the outside of the mast unless you commit to running them internally.
Rather than build a board you might consider doing what a number of us have done which is to use a commercial Efoil board and put your own compenents on/in it.
Challenging to build a board with a hatch for leas $ than buying a good used board only.
gone buy a 2end alu mast and build whires inside , just under the board wil be e litkle bit but only when drifting. (yes, you dont want dragging cables if all the rest is so smooth :D)
board from flite way to expencive for what it is.
next year i got a whole winter to think about my build in system
this year wil be the motor set up year. yeeee
You mentioned you are going to build a board yourself with no fabricating experience.
By the time you buy material and figure out how to make a water tight hatch to hold battery etc you might spend quite a bit and then have leaks.
I bought used Fliteboard from a dealer that runs a Fliteschool who was upgrading his student equipment for a lot less than new board only listed on the Fliteboard website.
There are very knowledgeable builders here who claim they would be hard pressed to build a comparable board for less.
But you are correct - get something functional quickly and get out riding!!!
Fliteprop is a good propeller, I tried many different props and I prefer it over any other I tested. I run them on two boards. It is not directly compatible with a 65161 motor as the bore for the shaft is diameter 11mm. You need to drill or ream ot out to 12mm. This can be done on a lathe or a drill press.
