Starting a build and I will post much more soon when I get a little farther.
Just getting parts together and doing some testing and I had a failure.
I have two batteries (TURNIGY HIGH CAPACITY 20000MAH 6S 12C LIPO PACK W/XT90) , a 56104 motor, 150A fuse, a handheld eskate controller and reciever and a Hobbywing Seaking V3 120A Brushless Waterproof ESC since I couldnt find the 130A quickly.
I wired it up the same as PMs wiring diagram (minus the monitors and gauges), soldered connectors everywhere I connected it all a first time and did not get any beeping or anything at all other than blinking lights on the receiver. I disconnected it, checked things over and did it again, touched the throttle and got a 1sec burst of motor activity then bang and smoke. ESC is now dead. A hole burned through the plastic housing next to the negative lead.
I am thinking I did not start it up with the throttle all the way up first, so it calibrated to the low setting and then when I went to high it passed too much current and overloaded.
Sound reasonable?
Im very sure its wired right. I have wired up multiple solar panel/battery bank systems for a family cabin and do most of my own electrical/ remodeling on my home for the last few decades. I checked it 10 times before plugging into batteries as well.
I need to buy a new ESC and think I should maybe go higher in current while Im doing it?
Im larger (105kg) and sure I will be pulling more current to foil than others here. I kite and am always one size bigger than everyone else so I know I require more thrust.
I dont want to spring for the 300A units unless its really necessary.
Let me know what you think.
That sucks that that happened! I blew a SeaKing by only having two of 3 motor phase wires working. Blew a hole right in the side. I now use a Flier 300a and it works so that’s good! Better to have more ESC than too little. I’m 90kg and have no problem flying at 30-40% power.
Too bad about your ESC. Sounds like a huge amperage spike. I really recommend getting the MGM Compro 25063-3 X2 ESC with extra capacitor bank added. The interface computer program is excellent. You can download all of the critical data. Super easy to program and really nice safety features. A well tuned efoil with a gearbox and optimized propeller should only draw about 40 amps on the foil. A Slingshot Infinity 76 or 84 will help reduce the amp draw and heat generated.
I’m still in the testing phase wirh my setup and use a flier 240A ESC. Don‘t now how it wil work under load, I works fine without motor load. I bought it over a year ago when I was enthusiastic and thought I would advance faster with my build. At that time high current VESCs just started to apear. If I had to buy a new ESC now, I would go for a VESC, probably the triforce A200S. With a VESC you can limmit the current (which saves the esc from burning) and you get telemetry data. Costs a bit more but pays of in the end. Those Chinese ESC‘s are not the best quality ones (at least my Flier does not impress me).
It’s from Flying Rodeo. I purchased the mast, motor, propeller and board. I built the electronics and am using a Slingshot Infinity 76cm hydrofoil. It is amazing. You can check out my Instagram at chris_wiseman1 for some videos. I’m so impressed at the Flying Rodeo company. Great service and top quality engineering. I can’t think of how to make it any better.
