ESC Mounted in Nose Cone?

Hi all,

New to the forum, but I have been doing some research into building my own efoil set up. I am hoping to get some opinions on an idea to put the ESC and receiver in the nose cone of the motor mount, with an extended antenna running up the mast and into the board to get signal to the remote. This would allow a simple watercooling circuit to service the ESC and the only electronic that need to be in the board is the battery. Has anyone tried this? Any immediate issues anyone can see?

Planned set up using Flipsky electronics;

65161 120Kv motor

200a ESC – watercooled

4 x 6s3p lipos (2 in series, 2 in parallel)

Would welcome any thoughts!

Thanks,

Tom

Bad idea in my opinion:

  • battery cables are pretty long, which may lead to problems because of induction with alternating current
  • water tightness of whatever you build as the nose cone
  • your cone could be damaged when hitting something that is floating in the water → leackage → short → high current → fire
  • the cone will be bigger than requiered to fit the ESC → more drag in the water

Better mount the ESC inside the board with active water cooling or passive air cooling as many other efoilers did with their builds

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Duotone rune their ESC down at motor level.

But they run the receiver up in the top of the waist box.

I’m not sure caps they are using or how they are getting around using ±2m power cables.

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Jetwave and Waydoo have the ESC at motor level too.

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Flipsky makes a motor with the ESC built in you could use that this would be simpler. I like the ESC on top of the mast plate that’s what I did on my build it’s a perfect fit for the Flite boards it doesn’t need cooling stays cool it minimize the wire length and lower the swing weight at the end of the mast.

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Thanks all, appreciate the comments. I like the idea of ESC on top opf the mast, sorts cooling and solves the battery cable issue.

Can I ask what ESC you have and what enclosure you use for it at the top of the mast?

thanks again

I can tell you that the battery cables being too long is not an issue and i really like the idea of having the esc in the cone - totally doable! I would do the same in my build.

Esc plus and minus & signal needs to run to the battery in the board and signal reception is fixed

It’s Flipsky 75200 with the waterproof enclosure. I unscrewed the water cooling plugs and bolted it to the adapter plate that converts the regular Gong mast to the Flite board mast socket.

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