I just got the Flier 400. It’s essentially 2 ESC’s in one. Like it’s for a dual motor setup or something. Still trying to figure out if I should hook everything up or run it with half the cables like @Mat did.
On the motor cables I soldered one of the cables to a bullet connector and soldered the second cable on top of the bullet connector and then just heat shrinked over the top of both cables. On the battery end I used eye lugs and connect the positive cables to the 150 amp CB and negative to a 2 post bus bar.
It works well.
you had 6 cables on the motor side??
mine was like below but black…
I didn’t use the smaller anti spark wire as i use XT90 antispark connectors.
You might get better cooling though 
it won’t hurt using all the wires i guess…
I’m not an expert, but I don’t think it’s a dual motor, just 2 smaller wires instead of a big one. Check with a multimeter, i guess you’ll find them connected together.
I emailed Flier and they said it’s OK to use all the wires so maybe I’ll go through the extra trouble of wiring “everything”. Haha!
Anyone seen this thing? T-motor Flame 180 HV. Looks like it just came out. $260 and it says 14S 180A continuous current FOC.
I saw it the other day. It will need airflow as its designed to sit in the prop-flow on multirotors.
Anyone want to buy a Hobbywing Seaking HV130A (v3) for their geared build? It’s fresh from China and still has the shrink wrap - I paid $150 for it. Would like the same, but I ship faster than China and free in NA.
I’ve decided to go jet - mainly because I live in Canada and found out the prop versions are illegal 
We have a lot of crazy rules here.
Hi Clayton. Bufadore here. We have created a special interest group here in Canada to change the wording of the rules. Since laws are based on definition the open impeller used on jet drives is not actually approved either. We are working with Transport Canada and the legislature to change the regulation. I have been involved in changing drone laws since 2002 and we expect change to happen soon. I would encourage you and others to join our group and continue with enclosed propeller designs. Please feel free to contact me anytime.
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Cool. Count me in! Thanks for taking that on.
Hi,
Has anyone used this ESC and got any feedback. At present i got a 130HV (same as PM) which is still running but looking for an alternative as alot of people having issues with it
New season new Esc burned, it’s been a while since my last post, I worked hardly and had no time to stay on forum or socialz. This year my efoil is made out of aluminium, serviceable without problems.
The problem, solved all the leakages etc, I finally realized comes from esc-propeller combo, more precisely running on “half throttle” at hi amps. Bear with me, for hi amps I’talking of 40 to 50, but with a blade capable of give speed thrill at 1/3 of lever squezed! Enough to cook your mosfets, doesn’t matter if rated 200A or 160A or 120 with active freewheeling. Last was a Yep 120, modified by separating controller board from mosfets and by adding two real watercooling plates, with special insulator/thermal conductor. 30 minutes and by by. Paddle boy, paddle! Let’s try something bigger, super overrated…but I also swap propeller with something more “gentle”
Vesc 75/300 ? Maybe … 
overrated and overpriced but no paddle any more
I feel not ready yet, for a Vesc! 
Kidding a part, room on my electronics box is an issue, I’m still using my Arduino remote, ramped super smooth and I know that a Vesc will mess all this up!
Last night a good friend dropped me a new ESC for free, a true chinesium grade 200A SeaShark “splashproof” cased esc.
He’s having a sync issue on his efoil with this, I mounted and tested it on dry, setup conservatively timing etc, as usual, ok on dry but as I gained safer distance from the beach and try to get up foiling, it kicked back on me and kept jerking untill full stop every time i tried. It happens only when under load, if you pull the propeller near the surface, cavitating it get to hi rpm but as soon as you load it more…goes out of sync.
What can I do? On the svftv.com esc site, support is near zero and their software has really few settings, logical would be to boost the timing up…with all the drawbacks for efoil application. Any ideas?
…maybe not yet ready for it but go ahead, tell me more about that, it’s start tinkering my brain the idea of a VESC with a real control over what’s going on, in place of junk rc toys…
I think you have a leak in your motor pod. You have gone through a couple ESCs. I’d start looking at where the motor phases might be shorting.
Pod is dry, this is 2019 efoil, cables etc are fine. YEP 120 esc failed due to hi current al low throttle, one mosfet burnt. This is a totally different story, either me than the guy who gave me the esc had the same issue, 2 same model esc so it’s not that single piece defective. He’s getting same out of sync issue with Flier 22s 400A, on big Alien motor, I think 56 120 inrunner.
Wish to find a way to make it work, finally solved leakages and machined an aluminium case very true and precise…still can’t run hassle free due to a stupid esc 
Get an arc200. They solid and you can limit all currents and temperatures.
Raised timing to “high” in place of “very low” (not possible to have a real number…) and the thing stopped pulling back!
I’m flying again, tested a small prop and the “ESC fryer” but machined down on my lathe, to reduce diameter and surface.
This last now pulls less than 65A at full throttle foiling, speed is adequate, 3/4throttle standing and up to full foiling sit on the board. I would have preferred a couple of knots more…the thrill of “dare to squeeze that trigger”…but I guess it’s preferably to stop frying electronics instead!
New tests to come, I’m sure a proper designed prop would do better than a chopped one!
