Some more pics from the progress over the weekend!
Front of the plastic nose which will interface with the aluminium case. Planning on getting the seal via an O-ring on the aluminium and the tonge picture here
The main case in aluminium is beign machined now and I’m using the little spare time I’ve got doing the electronics.
So far, I’ve not had much luck programming the X-Cross 160 so shifting direction and using a nice APD 80amps which I have on hand. Wanna test further onto the x-cross to see what’s actually the issue…
Not sure, as I bought it a while ago and has been sitting on the drawer…It works when connected to a motor, it’s something weird going on with the configuration. Need to look deeper into it as I’m sure is a silly thing, just too impatient to progress with this project!
I recieved the lower case as well as the battery. There was an issue with chattering on the seal face so I had to pot the top with some methacrilate and re-machine.
Electronics with the APD 80 amsp are fine. With the Flycolor 160 (once I manage to configure it) will need a different layout but still doable.
I’ve gone a different route with the electronics enclousure as I’m not planning on potting it, rather leave the cavity waterproof.
@Bzhwindtalker spot on your comments…What’s your current setup regarding the antenna?
First session in and was an absolute disaster … I didn’t do any plans for the signal to get out and I’ve not been able to foil in this first session.
I’ve got a full carbon DIY board, which I’ve retro fitted some windows for the signal in between the tracks and on the nose.
I was hoping the signal could get through the board but no chance…I could start the motor either with the remote submerged touching the case, or with the remote touching the nose window but as soon as the remote lost the physicals connection signal was totally lost…
Good thing is that the setup looks great, I just need to make it work now.
Sorry it did not work. I went the easy way and use a external antenna, simple and works perfectly. I get signal underwater when I touch the v2 remote to the antenna.
Not intellectually satisfied, but you have to pick your fights
Very cool project. Would you be willing to share the CAD files? I want to build a FD Gen 2 clone but would like to try and 3d print the housing. I was thinking of embedding stainless steel spacers into the plastic for strength where the mast attaches, or risking it and trying to print the whole housing from a carbon reinforced filament. I think if the walls around where the oval mast bolt holes are thicker and solid between the outer wall it might be strong enough.
Am thinking along the same lines, but am thinking perhaps a forged carbon section of the box where the heaviest loads are at. One could 3d print the housing in PETG with some strategically placed hollow spaces for the forged carbon, then build a mould that would compress the carbon into the hollow spaces.
Awesome build @Jordi. You pumped that out super fast and at what looks like a high quality build. Congrats!
Hi all! After a bit of sweet and sour feeling from the last session, I’m back to report SUCCESS on the second one!
First session left me scratching my brain, so went back to the workshop and got the whole unit on the CNC.
Lid and case was sealed so I didn’t want to open it and start cleaning the sika glue line.
I milled a 20x20mm window with 10mm recess for glue line and bonded a 1mm plastic sheet. This window lines up with the window on the board in between tracks.
I also got a 2.4ghz antenna, chopped the connector and exposed 31.8mm out.
Went back out yesterday night and the session was a success! Started with the external antenna touching the window and routed to the front. Signal was perfect and very strong, not a single cut.
After a while, removed the antenna and relied only on the signal going through the nose window, to the tracks to the plastic on top of the case. Signal was still good but weaker, I had to make sure I pop up quickly but once foiling and out of water was great!!