FD gen2 replica - 850€ budget

[Jordi]

Hi forum,

As many members here, I’ve been playing and building FD’s replicas for a bit. I think they’re great as provide for a light setup which allows for learn to pump or go into waves.

I now want to develop a Gen2 style under the board and document the process some users have done. I wanna keep the budget within 800€ for a full DIY version. I will be taking a few shortcuts on the first iteration but the goal is this.

The plan would be:
-Maytech remote
-6384 Motor
-Aluminium casing
-Original Foil drive battery compatible (as I have access to one for now, custom 21700 later on)
-Small ESC ( APD120 or Flycolor 160)

Planning on putting together a part list and start documenting the process. Looking forward to comments!

Jordi

[lishine]

Hi,
How do you plane to do the aluminum case?

[Jezza]

You can achieve this if you have the skills.
Other alternatives for the esc would be:
Makerbase 84100 (has built in Bluetooth)
Flipsky 100a pro V2 (has Bluetooth too)

[Jordi]

Planning on milling the case.

I´ve got access to a CNC router decent enough for prototyping but will also cross check against some quotes from suppliers!

This will definetly will be a big ticket from the budget.

[Jordi]

Thanks Jezza for the comments, will look into those although pretty set on the fist ones as I´ve got them laying around.

Jordi

[lishine]

A point to consider - aluminum 2.7gr/cm3 vs abs/asa 1.05gr/cm3

[Jordi]

I’m trying to keep the weight down as much as possible.

As per it’s designed now, weight of the case and lid is 838 grams.

The plastic box I’m using for the current DIY (Camdem CHDX8-322C) foil drive is 506grams.

That’s a weight penalty of about 300 grams which for now seem acceptable!

[S_Roger]

You could consider trying to blend some plastic parts. For instance the front nose portion of the aluminium box could be a 3D printed fairing piece. Similar to this: UK Efoil build V2. Could make the CNC process a bit shorter/cheaper and cut some weight. This assumes though you aren’t using the volume inside the front nose portion for batteries

[Jezza]

Have you measured this up against the FD unit? I’m assuming so if you are planning on making it compatible with the batteries.

[Jordi]

I don’t have access to a FD unit, therefore short answer is no. I’ve used an internet top view to trace and use it as a starting point.

I’ve got access to a FD battery, therefore the plan is to cross check that at least features for the battery are compatible…

That’s the plan for now!

[rttn]

The proportions are more like Slim than Max.

[aniva]

I plan the same, winter project, I want FD2 replica more or less… let’s connect?

[Jordi]

Lot’s of progress this weekend, I’ll follow up with some more pics late today but project is moving along.

My rough numbers are as follow:

• ESC (X-Cross 160 or APD) 70
  -Maytech remote and reciever 110
  -Outrunner 100
  -Battery & misc 100
  -3D Print & Misc 50

To get to my budget, this leaves me with 420 left for all the machined parts, which are basically a case and a lid.

I’ve got someone who can do the case locally, waiting on price for that.

I’ve already machined the lid on my cnc router, had an issue with workholding but will be good enough for testing.

[Jordi]

Indeed, planning on a slim size with 8s2p for now but once the concept is developed, scaling to a max is just matter of going from 35mm thick case to 50mm case.

Jordi

[Kian]

Hi Jordi,

Why didn’t you make the groove for the seal like this?

[Kian]

Oops. I see now. It’s not a groove. It is a ledge.
My misstake. I should have looked better.

[Jordi]

The groove will hopefully provide weathertightness to both the electronics and the battery, not sure the red lines will stop water coming from the side on the battery side.

Lid and case will match and provide for a seal, initially was thinking on an O-ring but at this point I’m thinking some sort of sealing material or sikaflex…

See snips

[Jezza]

Foildrive bond the units shut instead of using a seal. They dont use any o-rings.

[Jordi]

I recall seeing that somewhere, thanks for the confirmation!

I still think the groove and tongue detail is nice as this will help with sealing. @Jezza would you recommend any special adhesive for joining these?

Thanks,

Jordi

[Jezza]

FD use the tongue and groove. It’s what I did when I designed my FD copy (which I never bothered completing).
Epoxy is going to be your strongest bond. Just Google a bit for which would be best. I’m not too sure how thick you walls are around the bolts, but I wouldn’t go under 5mm there as I’ve seen guys bend 3mm alloy with that force.