I modified the design so i could use a potentiometer on the trigger, the potentiometer shaft is sealed by an O ring and other joystick parts. The rest of the electronics consist of a hobbyking orangerx diy transmitter module.
For the ppm input into the transmitter module I use an arduino nano using code from the link below slightly modified so I get the full PWM range from the trigger movement.
I’m still using lipo’s which makes a 12s 24ah pack but in reality I am getting about 19ah from the pack, this is due to me charging to 4.15v and draining to 3.5v the cells are quite old now as well although they haven’t had many cycles (maybe 40)
76kg rider + 24kg efoil
Gong curve MT hydrofoil
Flipsky 65161 120kv with flipsky prop 7.25 x 5 cut down to 140mm
My first question is, does anybody know if the fish paper/barley paper rings are required on these cells? They seem to have some sort of protection ring anyway.
I finally got all the bits to build my new battery pack but after digging out my diy spot welder I realised its not man enough to spot weld 0.2mm nickel.
Any recommendations for a suitable spot welder?
I know about kweld but it’s very expensive. I came across items like this on ebay but I’ve not had any experience with them
Malectrics have a min order value of 160euro to the uk, so I can’t really order it.
Kweld has a uk supplier and I can get it for £175 but I was hesitant because of the price and an email I recieved back from them kind of saying a car battery might not give good results.
“Generally it can work with kWeld but isn’t providing good results with such a material (from what I see from our users) it can go up to 1200 amps but not more.”
This was from me asking about welding 0.2mm nickel.
But when I have searched this forum people are just removing there car battery, happily welding their packs together and sticking the car battery back on the car!
I used the cheap red spot welder from AliExpress, and modified it by following a YouTube video to add an additional resistor. I used an old car battery and took my current car battery out, put them in parallel.
Seemed to get reasonable welds with a copper nickel sandwich (0.1mm copper 0.1mm nickel plated steel strip)
Old debate, spot welding or soldering, here is a short about how to solder not only 0.2 or even thicker nickel strips with pre-separate (=minimum) heating for cells and strip. For cheap.
Channels to watch:
[Off Topic by ErCanEverything] For the Parkside fans out there, the 220V 1180Wh portable power station
After blowing up the cheap chineese 99 gears spot welder I decided to buy two more
There is a good reason behind the madness, the circuit board actually has 5 more positions ready to solder on more FETS, the second circuit board was the donor.
I added loads more solder to the tracks and shortened the cables, now when connected to my 110ah 12v leasure battery it welds 0.2mm nickel @30ms
Because the spot welder isn’t as advanced as Kweld etc I did everything I could to give it a good chance, practicing on old cells to work out the best ms and car battery voltage, I also degreased the nickel strips and battery terminals. If the car battery voltage dropped by half a volt then I would charge it back to the testing range.
