I finally got all the bits to build my new battery pack but after digging out my diy spot welder I realised its not man enough to spot weld 0.2mm nickel.
Any recommendations for a suitable spot welder?
I know about kweld but it’s very expensive. I came across items like this on ebay but I’ve not had any experience with them
Malectrics have a min order value of 160euro to the uk, so I can’t really order it.
Kweld has a uk supplier and I can get it for £175 but I was hesitant because of the price and an email I recieved back from them kind of saying a car battery might not give good results.
“Generally it can work with kWeld but isn’t providing good results with such a material (from what I see from our users) it can go up to 1200 amps but not more.”
This was from me asking about welding 0.2mm nickel.
But when I have searched this forum people are just removing there car battery, happily welding their packs together and sticking the car battery back on the car!
I used the cheap red spot welder from AliExpress, and modified it by following a YouTube video to add an additional resistor. I used an old car battery and took my current car battery out, put them in parallel.
Seemed to get reasonable welds with a copper nickel sandwich (0.1mm copper 0.1mm nickel plated steel strip)
Old debate, spot welding or soldering, here is a short about how to solder not only 0.2 or even thicker nickel strips with pre-separate (=minimum) heating for cells and strip. For cheap.
Channels to watch:
[Off Topic by ErCanEverything] For the Parkside fans out there, the 220V 1180Wh portable power station
After blowing up the cheap chineese 99 gears spot welder I decided to buy two more
There is a good reason behind the madness, the circuit board actually has 5 more positions ready to solder on more FETS, the second circuit board was the donor.
I added loads more solder to the tracks and shortened the cables, now when connected to my 110ah 12v leasure battery it welds 0.2mm nickel @30ms
Because the spot welder isn’t as advanced as Kweld etc I did everything I could to give it a good chance, practicing on old cells to work out the best ms and car battery voltage, I also degreased the nickel strips and battery terminals. If the car battery voltage dropped by half a volt then I would charge it back to the testing range.
Instead of building a brand new V2 Efoil I decided to modify my existing board into a more user friendy setup.
The main differences include cutting the board down from 155cm to 135cm as the back end was quite long, adding a proper hinged hatch and ditching the round screw on hatches and bolted main hatch. I also transferred the motor from the Gong V1 mast to the Gong V2 mast and made it more streamlined.
I would love to but i lost a bunch of pictures when i moved data to a new phone. I basically did the same as a few others have done and cut a notch out of the mast and bolted an aluminium disc into the mast using 3 x m5 bolts, I also used a methyl methacrylate epoxy to stick it it place with a fillet just to make sure it was strong.
This is the best pic I have left, but already shown above.
great setup, trying to avoid the BMS as well. which (waterproof?) connector did you use for the balance wires - both on the box and for the balance charger?