Yea. It just looks heavy! I’d try for a lighter weight option if I was you.
You just have to make sure there is a layer of fiberglass or carbon fiber cloth under the aluminum so it is encapsulated / bonded to the skin if that makes sense. Otherwise it will get smashed down into the foam over time and endup breaking loose from the surface bond with the skin of the board.
Hi @Flightjunkie,
Did you used a flipsky 65161 motor for this build ?
(I don’t think to have seen the answer on this thread, but in case you already answered that, I’m sorry to disturb you).
I have one mast setup with a 65161 motor and a second one with a FR / Lift type motor. I can swap the masts between the two boards I have.
So… are there obvious differences between the two motors?
The FR motor is arguably the best direct drive efoil motor on the market today, the flipsky 65161 and maytech 65162 is around 2nd best. most people use the Flipsky 65161 and 65162 because of its price point. if i were to do another build i would probably go with the FR motor.
You buy a Lift Board for only 6000 US Dollar?
This is a DIY build.
The FR motor is smoother and quieter and has a bit more power. I haven’t done direct side by side comparison.
Huge price difference.
I unterstand, but the Board is original Lift Board?
Hi.
This thread is focusing on my “SUP efoil board” build. It is a custom board. Made with the help of a friend. The board was cut on CNC. Then done in Carbon fiber.
I think if you actually read this thread it will make since. Maybe you are foreign language and things don’t translate well?
Sorry if I don’t understand your question. These pictures are from above in this thread.
The pictures of the lift board are from my other DIY build you can find here:
He build his board from scratch. It looks really good than Lift Board. Awesome building.
Ah ok, I understood that one of the boards was an original lift board that was rebuilt.
I think is time to upload a fresh pics 
Hello,
First off thanks so much for sharing both of your builds (1st build & SUP build). I am still reading through peoples builds but plan on starting my own in the next month.
Did you move your ESC cooling inside the box? If so, why the change (just curious)? I am still thinking about how I want to cool my ESC, so just curious why/how you did this. I imagine it is a tight fit inside the box.
Flightjunkie,
COuld you please advise, how much weight did you get in total. I would appreciate if you can split them by parts like:
Total weight = xxx kg.
Thanks in advance, just interesting what did you get at the end. Want to compare to my build. However, I can’t weight it right now cause it is not finished yet.
And if you know what is average total weight for commercial products like takuma, waydoo, flight, lift?
Best regards!
Hi.
The second electronics box was the flier esc. It has built in water cooling, so no external copper tubes like seen on my first build.
The 75/300 VESC doesn’t need cooling I have come to find out . The aluminum box that houses it which is half full of CorrosionX works as enough of a heatsink.
Hi.
I have posted weights in the past. Off the top of my head I don’t remember. If I find time I’ll weight the stuff.
To say the true, I really like this board.
You don’t mind that I use your board as template?
I see you have a few boards now. Is the Trampa VESC 75300 working? Are you happy with the FS 75200 ?
I love the Trampa 75/300. I’ve been beating on it for over a year. Going strong! The FS in the other hand, honestly…I haven’t got the FS75200 up and running yet. Just been backlogged with other projects. 
Soon I hope!
