Hi, i like your build and i am replicating it with 65161 motor , your propeller, but lipo batteries and inflatable board. The deadman switch, i could figure out the 200A relay
But the 2s delaying relay or switch i’m lost. There are some looping ones or not 5v 12 v … Etc I need some help please.
I assume you use a 100ohm resistor for antispark or similar.
Thanks
Attila
#Aliexpress € 0,88 | NE555 0 ~ 10S Verstelbare Module DC 12V Vertraging Relais Shield Tijdschakelaar
https://a.aliexpress.com/_BU5QQM
Works wonderfully
@Louis: do you program any delay (say 1 or 1.5s) so that after the deadman switch is removed (rider’s fall) you have this time to remove your finger from the remote to preserve the ESC which is not violently switched off that would result in ESC internal damage? During this delay the board can travel ~10 meters without rider though (3m/s x 3.6 = 10.8kmph)
To anybody to suppress the time needed by the rider to release the trigger. Maybe it has be done already… 
On the receiver side of the remote, is there a way to set the remote PPM/PWM to zero (overriding the remote throtlle) as soon as the deadman switch is detected open (rider’s fall) ? I have in mind a normally closed (NC) relay on the DMS (Dead Man Switch) in parallel with the PPM signal going to the ESC so that a trigger release is simulated… . Doing so, I fear a short circuit on the remote receiver…
The good point of this DMS override would be that so long you are not on the board with the DMS connected, you can press the remote trigger as strong as you want (including accidentally), the zero volt of the NC relay contact will simulate a zero trigger action.
I think it is only for the turning on, when there is spark so the relay can weld himself. 2 s delay so one resistor can charge the capacitors… You shot off with the relay … There is no spark… I think…
Thank you, i could identify on banggood as well, i will buy a 5 v too so i can use with a regular bec. By the way the 200A 12V relay is the same as you are using ?
Best way in my opinion is an arduino between receiver and esc and kill switch to arduino. To sent 1000uS signal to esc when killswitch is activated. I don’t like it to cut power from esc when motor us turning.
wouldn’t a simple reed switch to the signal wire from the RX to the ESC work. so your not cutting power to the RX.
No this will not work for most esc’s because they will keep the same rpm for 1-3sec after signal loss.
You are right, i found a tutorial for arduino from maxmaker , but that is a whole remote… Only for safety where i should look ?
My seal 300A cuts almost instantly.
I am working on it but I still have some problems. I have designed and ordered some pcb’s in china. When I have it working I will let you know.
I did install the delay relais at about 1.5sec. I did use a leash to my ankle or arm to a magnetic switch at the board, I do not use the leash anymore since I don’t like it. I do use the magnetic switch to disconnect everything. The only thing that is powered on a draining from the battery is a dc dc converter from 42v to 12v that only takes a few milli amps. So I can let board just sit there with the batteries inside connected.
My experience with cutting off the esc throttle or cutting off the esc receiver line, I tried all of them will result in same rpm for a moment and I don’t like that at all.
At my way everything is off and I did that because I have a lot of experience with Ebikes, and accidents can happen with a bunch of wires and water. So a bad throttle connection can sometimes lead to full throttle at once. Really dangerous situations. A our efoils are 5kw blenders. So changing a prop or walking with the whole thing I make sure my magnet is not attached to the board and all is safe.
And yes maybe I will start using a leash, If we let go of the throttle power is off, but what if there is something wrong ( spring at the throttle broken, water at the throttle or esc, bad signal etc etc ) and the foil willl take off at full throttle without a person.
Aliexpress propellers are little mixed bag. The good thing, in addition to very cheap price is that they are often exact copy of the OEM propeller( Yamaha, Mercury…) that usually are very good. Solas and Michigan Wheel are probably better quality but the shape is usually their own design, not always better than OEM. The bad thing with Aliexpress stuff is …well they are not totally honest:) Ordered a 8 pitch Merc propeller, and despite marking and packing stated 8 pitch, it was a exact copy of a 7 pitch prop…bummer. Alu or plastic, don’t think any general rule works here, depend on application, shape, only way to know is to test. If comparing two different manufacturers alu props with the exact same diameter and pitch, result will still be very different…Props = black magic:)
Very nice project by the way!
Hi, i will ask again… You are cutting the power from the esc (VESC) under load ? When you fell ? I find this product:
What do you think ?
I bought one and got a damaged one. Hope Flipsky replace theme.
I am little but wondering about this product.
Rating is 280 Ampere but the cables are AWG 10
IF I use my leash and IF there would occur an error under load, than I can disconnect under load. But normally you just let go of the throttle so there is no load anyway. So I never disconnect under load. But if the throttle would hang or something else bad willen happen than there is the option to cut everything down.
I received my 8 pitch prop from alie express in just a few days, I don’t think it will run better than the 5 or 7 pitch. It just can run really fast with consuming a lot of power but cruising at 25 km/h is for now my favorite speed, and 5 pitch is so much easier because, full throttle at the 5 pitch is about 25 km/h and it is easier to just have full throttle instead of go up and down all the time in speed. Now I understand why cruise control is so much better.
Yes it is very nice to have kv or pitch close to top speed wanted , using full duty ( battery voltage ) lower the amp and it is more comfortable
Not sure about cruise control , never used it but I assume you need to have the hand on power to level to the board , too leasy to move my feet …
I also made my mast as far as I could to the back and that is much better. I really can carve through the corners. So much better in every way. I also found a good and easy solution to make the mast detachable and stil waterproof.
I put the 3 phase wires with a watercooling hose through a plastic tube and glued it waterproof than I used 1 big swivel for this tube. Instead of more swivels and more space and work. Works really well.
Also I put a strong plate of trespa at the bottom and on top of the mast mounting. So when I hit the bottom of the lake everything will be fine.
Nice project with a nice visible color and a matching prop fairing !
I would really like to know more. How was it done during the board building ?
Would you have a pict for that point ? How is it above the mast when the mast hatch is opened ? Is your main hatch watertight ?
Do you think a main hatch could be made out of TRESPA ? This material is nice (High Pressure Laminate exists in plenty of colors) seems really tough but looks heavy. What do you think ?
Im wondering where you got this nice big box cover from?
By the way your build looks quiet nice for one being build without a lot of 3D printing.
