I am in the decision mode between these 2 esc. In the forum I see a lot of the 75200 being used but not so much the 300. Since this is a new build I am thinking go bigger for headroom in the capacity. But is there a problem with the 300? The 300 is listed as waterproof but not the 200. Also the 200 states it can do FOC but the 300 not listed. So I am hoping someone can chime in with some insite.
I will be using for efoil with a 12s12p samsung inr30q.
Thanks in advance
All the VESCs can do FOC so the main difference will be the higher current and about 4x larger size of the 75300. Price is surprisingly similar between the two.
Thanks Larsb
I received this answer from flipsky tech.
1.Does the 300 allow FOC mode?—Yes. It supports FOC and BLDC modes. The FOC works more smooth.
3.Functionally are they identical except for the power handling capability?—It is more powerful and can handle higher current.
I use the same prop but cut down to 140mm, it works fine with the same motor as yours on 12s. I’ve been using it for over a year and find it quite efficient.
Thanks for that info. Do you have a picture of what you shaped it like? I don’t have a lathe but I can probably figure some way to turn it on the actual motor or on a drillpress.
hey mate! do you know the size of the inlet/outlet water pipes for the ESC you’ve got?
I’m going the same setup for the TOW I’m building
Do you also have the height of the ESC with the water-cooling platform?
Here ya go. The tubing is 8mm and the height of the vesc is 5.5cm.
Hi What was the problem if left stock? Did you try it before you shaped it smaller?
Sorry I missed your question.
I only used the lathe to scribe the new diameter, you can just cut with hack saw or band saw and sand to shape. I did some basic balancing and also filled in where the markings are stamped.
Great thanks for the pics. Was it poor performance before the chop?
I didn’t try it before it was cut down but others advised to do this, it’s too big as it is and you will have excessive amp load. It definitely needs chopping.
If your prop is too lorge, your motor is not powerfull enough to reach its max speed.
The problem is that you can remove too much material.
The best way if you can is to remove cm by cm, test, look at the speed and rpm, remove again until it reaches a speed plateau.
Thanks guys. I will further investigate what 65161 48v crew have found but will take your advice. Thanks so much.
Today I just figured how to use uart or ppm. Seems they both work but uart mode shows live amps and power at the remote which seems good but may just bling.
Hey mate,
FYI, I got my FS75200 today. Same as you have. I would not recommend using the water inlet / outlet pipe/connectors.
First the quality of the original tube loop (with the spring) is questionnable and very poor. You can remove it with very low traction. I’ve ordered a new tube and it’s WAY better but still…
Piece of mind would be to either put a lot of sikaflex to make sure no water can escape the connectors… or just replace connectors.
I agree that supplied tube is useless. If you can get some stiff polyurethane plumbing tube I think will be ok. I have connectors like those in my house for water purefier connections running at 80psi no problem.
I got message from flipsky to not run that motor very long dry or it might damage the ceramic seal. Just an FYI 
Good to know thanks.
I don’t fully understand how these ceramic seals work but is it something like this?
It seems like they rely on two smooth surfaces running against each other under spring pressure, one surface rotating and the other fixed, the smooth surface stops the path of the water but is also lubricates the surface.
Prop cutting and balancing by @Virus, this free prop is very appreciated by the ones who modified it (@jeffM flying at 18A 1500cm2 wing with it)
Thanks SoEfoil
What is the best diameter for the 65161 120kv do you think? Gazman says 140cm works well.
