Hey,
does anyone know if a Flitecell battery could be used for a DIY build without modifications? Flitecell Sport | eFoil Battery | Fliteboard™ USA
Does it have any electronics built in that checks if it is connected to a Fliteboard ESC or does it work like a regular battery?
t-dub
I’m interested to know this as well
Did you investigate this further?
I’m thinking the newer ones without data connections cables could be used as a DIY pack.
In the manual they say you need to place a “charge magnet” on the battery to enable charging.
And that the system turns on when you shut the lid of the board so another magnet in the lid which turns on the BMS.
My friend just sold his fliteboard so can’t test with his. Assume there is some monitoring stuff sent wirelessly from the BMS to the speed controller to restrict current if the pack gets too hot, or is out of balance, but I think that’s probably a one way data flow, just for monitoring.
Interestingly the series 3 batteries are compatible with series 1 boards which have the data cable.
I assume that on all Flitecells the magnet activates the relay on the battery and the dataport is only used to shut the ESC down on series 1 etc.
Unfortunately no updates from my side.
I think it should work though.
I was ready to buy a Flitecell Sport, but my local dealer seems to be pretty flaky and never followed up on my inquiry.
Since then I ended up buying an empty Flitecell enclosure from @Kinetisist. I’ll probably try to build my own pack and put it into the enclosure.
Could you see if there is a magnet on the lid somewhere? Running a washer or something on the underside should show its location easy enough. Thanks!
Hello, does some one designed a case dimensions for flitecell Sport that fits in the flite air and can share the step file please?Thanks a lot
Did you heat bend it? What did you bond the base on with?
That looks nice. Are planning to try and use the existing latch system in the board to hold the battery in place?
I heated it 45sec with the hair straightener from my wife and then bended the polycarbonat, works good because you can heat both sides at the bendingpoints. And get a pair of hot ears for free from her at the point she recognized that. 
I welded this frame with the hot gun to the bottom, because I do not trust any glue. I will also weld the lid. For this purpose you can buy 4mm polycarbonat sticks extra for welding.
Yes I will use the snaplock. Will put 14s LG pouch cells 37ah inside. The original flitecell sport only got 30ah
15 LG pouches will fit too.
3 stacks of 5.
There are different sizes I ordered the 8x137x265mm. The fliteair got less space then other fliteboard models. 15s would be possible with this type of cells one stack 8 and one 7 and on top the bms.
Interesting. I also have a new Flite Air board with the smaller battery space and will also be putting a stack of LG pouch cells (in part inspired by @Kian). The cells I bought are from a volvo hybrid, 32AH and 150mmx200mm. Unfortunately cannot fit 2 stacks in the smaller Flite air, so will do a single 10S stack.
I use nearly every millimeter of the space the fliteair got. Next 2 weeks the cells should arrive, hope everything will fit.
Just a small note.
A friend of us is using the pouches too, however his did start swelling.
Our batteries have not shown any swelling so far, even though we’ve used them a lot.
In our next pouches battery build we are going to “compress” them between some aluminum plates.
Always keep an eye on that, therefor Polycarbonat is good. If swelling, replace the cells directly. Is he using LG too?
Yes. Same pouches as I am using.
LG Chem E63B
Maybe his charging process is wrong or he did not get grade A batterys from our chinese friends. There are a lot of used or grade b cells on the market they sell for grade a ones. No chance to avoid that even buying from the same store is not save 100%.
Here are some cheap, waterproof and easy to build in degassing valves for diy batteries. Good to have them build in, if something went wrong.
