Flycolor ESC failure

I’m hoping some electrical gurus on this forum can help me.

I’ve now gone through 2 Flycolor X-cross 160A ESCs in one week and ended up with a burn injury.

Both times my ESCs have exploded a few seconds after connecting a battery up without my Motor connected on the other end. I have a 3 phase connector which allows me to disconnect the motor at the mast. Same way the Gen 2 FD does. Is powering up the ESC without a motor in the circuit a reason for this to happen??

It’s always the row of small caps that fail and pop which suggests it’s not dealing with the in-rush current when connecting.

Please help? This is getting expensive and painful :frowning:


Always connect phase wires first. That is probably the reason it is happening.

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what battery config are you running?

any ideas on the reason for this??
just asking as had been connecting mine for testing without the motor connected.

No unfortunately I have no idea what is causing this. Everything I’ve found online has suggested fine to connect battery without motor, as long as phase wires don’t short. Im not going to risk it anymore regardless.

10s2p. Had it working for months and I’ve done nothing different but suddenly within 1 week killed 2 ESCs :frowning:

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building similar setup with 11s2p.

Just a thought have you checked your XT90 anti spark is working as it should?
no corrosion and that there is 5 ohm between the two stages on the positive side.

Are you removing the heat sinks and mounting on custom heat sink block ? nothing that could be shorting out??

I was removing them and mounting my own custom clamp that mounts against an external sink. But I am going to leave this one completely standard and try as is. No contact with anything other than the mosfets and triple checked. The only thing I can point to is not having had my motor connected.

Re: anti spark amass connectors, I have my anti spark side on all of my batteries since the pins are female so thought might be less risk of shorting in their box. Both times I have fried the esc I have used 2 different batteries so I don’t think it’s a bad connector. Unless it’s on the male non anti spark side? How might I check in any case ?

Did you modify the esc? It has reverse/short-protection. Works. Would consider a fuse on battery cable.

I think I will eventually fuse my batteries. Any recommendations on what fuse I should be looking at?

Whatever short protection this ESC has def doesn’t do anything to help me here. What I can’t understand is I have been using this system for a couple months and it’s been working great. Until now for some reason.

Pretty much rules out the Antipark as was over 2 Batteries, and yes antipark is on Female one.
I am guessing you were using a non-conductive heat sink compound.

MidiOTO, 1.5 x max current. Biggest availabe in this form factor is 200A. It is relatively small and rated up to 58V.
https://www.reichelt.com/ch/de/kfz-sicherungshalter-midioto-200-a-58-v-schraubanschluss-imaxx-hmd1-p229126.html?LANGUAGE=DE&CTYPE=0&MWSTFREE=0&CCOUNTRY=459&PROVID=2808&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwmrqzBhAoEiwAXVpgojUPni8B-5jLFEqpQ0M5j2xbT9BANAQ5hrYdIEfjPwXxrEaJiDWIARoCKtAQAvD_BwE&&r=1
Fuse holder is also available from reichelt.

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I made one of these 150A. Havnt nhad time to test yet

Self made fuse from zinc?
Would you share how you do it?
I read the thread , but didn’t understand what is this loophole shorting of a connector…

It’s used like a key for turning on/off, with fuse and antispark from the connector you insert to close the circuit. Low-tech but nice.

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Great. And how to make fuse from zinc?

Nah you just buy a flat 150a fuse from ali or local shop, cut to size, soldering into the xt90 and cover with silicone

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