@rogjalon Isn’t it better to turn off the esc’s power supply via the kill switch rather than just receiving the remote control? I seem to have read this on the forum
Hi Manu,
The way I have this set up is working well for me. My ESC is set up to shut down with in 3 seconds of signal loss. I have asked flier to make a program where this is reduced to 0.5 seconds. This is mainly to stop me from having a long swim to retrieve my board.
I did read somewhere that cutting main power to the ESC under load is not good for it. So I decided not to do it that way.
Some efoils like fliteboard don’t have any cut off protection at all.
Thank you for your answers, how do you program the ESC switch off after 3 seconds I don’t see or select this option on the notice…
The 3 second cut off is not in the program list. It’s a standard feature on the Flier ESC. I have written to Flier and asked if they can make a firmware to include this as a programmable setting. As I think 0.5 seconds would be better for our needs. Flier said that they would look into it, but haven’t yet confirmed anything with me.
I saw afterward thank you, swordfish also protects against signal loss but they do not mention the time in seconds of this protection…
Manu,
I read that the swordfish X ESC has signal loss protection in 100ms. Which is very quick. I’m not sure if all of their ESCs are the same
I inquire and do not fail to share information. Thanks again for your information.
And bravo your wiring and organization are super clean, I like
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Hi, I have a Flier esc and just read the thread about the possibility of a custom firmware. Did anything ever come of this? It would be a really nice feature, or did your ever get sent a firmware files we might be able to tweak 
.
No, I’m still using the aeroplane firmware.
They’re asking for $1000 USD to make a custom firmware. Far to expensive. Although if we could get around 20 of us sharing the cost, it may be worth it.
I tried that aeroplane firmware you sent me. I’m using the 320 amp 3-16s boat esc.
It definitely isn’t the right firmware for this esc. It completely spazzed out my motor. It was worth a try though. Mine works ok on the boat v3.0 firmware so I didn’t have a lot to gain. Thanks for sending it for me to try.
My ESC is the 22s 400a. It’s strange that only the aeroplane firmware worked for me.
It seems that every model that they make needs a different firmware.
Sorry it didn’t help you.
Ouch, that’s a bit steep!
Well if 18 more people speak up I’d be happy to pay my part, but I’m guessing it’s unlikely 
.
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Also, they’d have to make a firmware that would suit all of their ESCs as many of us have different model’s.
Once the initial SW code is written, it is usually costless to spread in the different firmware versions with compilation switches. Then there is the test phase though.
You write the code once, you duplicate it wherever needed.
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If anyone is looking to upgrade their geared setup from 3D printed plastic to aluminium, I can highly recommend this CNC machined motor pod and prop setup from @jakebarnhill1 The SSS56104 motor and Neugart PLE40 fit straight in, it’s easy to disasemble for servicing and the performance difference from my 3D printed setup is amazing with more speed, longer ride times and everything stays so cool.
It fits my new Gong foil perfectly and i believe it also fits sling shot mast profile too.
The 3D printed designs from @pacificmeister and @Hiorth are legendary designs that got many of us started but having a solid serviceable motor pod is next level.
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Interested in the prop 
. Any cad file or even data ? diameter / pitch ?
Also, since you did not anodize it, I suppose it’s marine alu 5083 ?
It’s a 140mm diameter prop, 217mm pitch. At 4000rpm it gets me 43kmh without a duct and 38 with the duct and about 3900rpm. Its made from 6061-T6 aluminium. Heres a good data video:
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Thanks Jake ! Any cad file ? will try it too
Also, you should try alu 7075-t6 with hard anodizing surface finish, that’s what FR / Lift is using
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That is a fantastic video! Great efficiency. Well done!
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Very nice build! I don’t know about performances but I can vouch for the smoothness of run of “precision” machined alu pod vs. 3d printed. Also, tight tolerances on seals, O-ring compression, shaft-bearings alignememt make watertight it very easy from both sides (mast and prop), hence the possibility to take it apart.
Wish to be able to cnc my propellers for next build.
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