My plan was to build an assist plus version. I’m 90kg and would be on a SUP foil board. Maybe the 8S3P will be the one I need then. I don’t need to foil in flat water. I just want to catch loads of waves. I just want to make sure I have enough power for plenty of waves. So then, in your opinion, 6S3P 21700 or 8S3P 21700?
If you are not constrained by weight or esc, I’d go for 8s3p. Just make sure your batteries can deliver high amps, like the p42…
6s is kind of the bare minimum and for your weight you’d probably have to paddle to get started.
In my previous setup, I was successfully running a 150A Marine ESC. It worked very well and I got immediately full power and was able to ride.
I’ve now moved to Maker X GO FOC SV6 - FW 5.2. Still on 6S.
Went through normal setup in FOC and I tried it yesterday on the water… I couldn’t even lift the foil. I believe my VESC conf requires more tuning. I was about to switch to BLDC but still wondering if I can’t get it working perfectly on FOC.
I had Motor Current Max setup to 54A (this is done via detection) and I’m now moving it to 90A. Same for Current Max Brake (which I don’t care that much)
I’m using Graphene 6S1P & Motor is N6374 130kv - Current Control
I’ve also installed the no hw limit firmware for VESC
It looks great the way it is all put together. I am a complete beginner and only just started gathering my bits for my first build. I’m surprised a fan in a sealed box works so well but it sounds like a route I should consider. How does the heat dissipate when it is all sealed?
I have the same MakerX VESC. It worked fine for one time testing but then just died. No idea what is wrong, no 5vdc output from BEC and it doesn’t run the motor. Does not smell burnt. Their customer service is terrible…I don’t recommend buying their products. I have since received a Flipsky VESC. I cannot remember the name of it but it’s similar in size and specs to the Maker X. So far, it works well during testing. It is very nice to have data displayed on the Maytech remote. I will test in the surf soon and I also have a R/C type ESC to try afterwards.
I am using the 6374 motor and 8S lipo. If I remember correctly, I am using FOC and 60 amps limit for motor and 100 amps for battery. I’m using a 6” prop that is nearly identical to genuine Foildrive and it only draws 23 amps at full throttle.
So it doesn’t really dissipate, but having forced air over the heat sink (even warm air) seems to help a bunch. I built an Efoil the same way with only a fan on the esc in an enclosed box with no issues. The longer the run the more heat build up until the lid gets opened to switch out batteries.
It should work - I’m using the free version and someone above ended up getting to work. I’ll have a look at settings and see if I can change something. Otherwise I might have to signup to thingiverse and upload that way
Larger hole pattern should be better
I was similar using FOC mode on a similar setup - I kept getting fault cut-outs when pushing over about 50 Amps with a similar motor. Tried for a while and referred to other forum topics that cover FOC issues with VESC (mine was a DRV related fault).
Ended up getting frustrated with the number of times bailing over the front when it cutout and changed the settings from FOC to BLDC mode and haven’t had an issue since. I only really draw 60Amps peak on my setup - yes the BLDC is slightly noisier but I couldn’t justify spending more time on it.
I’ve been able to run mine in full efoil mode (30-40Amps continuous) until the battery dies. ESC gets up to about 65C. I have just mounted it hard up against the plastic side wall and it hasn’t come close to overheating. I’m using this VESC VESC 6 MkVI TRAMPA
I like the fan concept though. Anything that avoids another hole in the case is good.
How have people mounted the assist case on their boards where there is not enough space behind the deck pad. The board I intend to use has a deck pad with a kick tail almost all the way to the back of the board. I could try to cut out a section of the deck pad but keen to know if anyone has found an alternative solution.
Did you calculated the different parameter like flux linkage, inductance ect yourself using formula? Detection was off by heaps in my case, had low power in FOC and couldn’t run BLDC at all. As soon as I entered correct parameter it worked perfectly
for my wingboard, the kick is towards the back, but I foil a few inches forward of it anyway…I just cut a section out the width of the narrow side of box. A buddy has a diy board that he has cut out an indent and sunk box in 3/4…which would work but is pretty major surgery. Possibly could also fit in between feet in surf stance, that may be best option for prone boards.
If your board has footstrap holes at the rear you can use these and place box over the tail kick pad.
I just use a strap and loop system to tie the box down. It is best to cut the tail kick off to get it all flush and low profile.
Or try cutting a plate mount for fixings to footstrap screw holes out of plastic chopping boards, carbon fibre sheet, aluminium sheet or Perspex or anything stiff enough and low profile.