hello all. finally I was able to test my creation. the combination works better than expected
materials used:
flipsky motor 65161
flipsky vesc 75200 water cooled
flipsky remote VX5
Flipsky 2 balde folding prop
flite prop 3 blade
batterie li-ion 48V 30Ah 13S 12P
board gong mint fsp pro 5.6 120 liter
mast V2 85 cm
foils: x-over xxl, x-over stab 46, fluid pro XL , fluid pro stab L 43, curve pro T-lL
now i know the technic works i wil try figger out the best combination.
i want a smooth ride , not a nervous board
flipsky prop 2 blade folding prop works great and lots of power. only used 50% power (remote Low and in the 10 gear mode only go up to 5. also no abrupt stop when no power.
i saw a lot of info in the past about the use of gong foils. i thinking about buy a V3 mast with veloce xl front and veloce h xl stab . its got a high ratio and i think it wil be a nice thing to ride. but expensieve and dont want a bad buy.
some people have experience or recommendations?
It might be a bit early to buy more foils. The XOver is a good match for your stated requirements. Perhaps a smaller version of that foil would supply some advancement in ride.
I’m not sure why you choose to ride a folding prop on a full efoil but each to their own.
I would suggest you get a smoother surface clamp cover and perhaps a filler piece between end of motor and prop.
@DutchFoiler i am about 88kg + wet suit i guess 90kg. and material wil be like 20-25? kg (need to weigh my material) i want to cruise and carve in the corners(big curves) no need for tricks or agressive turns/jumps/slalom… @Foilguy yes for the moment i want to try and combinate my existing material. i also already know its a big differents where is the mast position (in the board rail) best feeling now is al the way to the back. maybe also becaus of the extra weight from battery box (i guess 10-12kg) i also wil try to position the box in between my feet instead of at the back. so lots to do at the water
yes the clamp is prototype alu handcraftwork but works well. but not the most easthetic.
i had a 3d clamp made first but that did not feel rigid so made a alu one (tx to all the people who made the file public) i used the back part of the 3d clamp for a filler between motor and prop . the fuselage holder i sawed off.
the 3d filler between motor and prop from that 3d clamp i wil make it few cm bigger to fill the gap compleet
lots of thins to improve and change but real fun can start now on the water.
i used both props. folding 2 balde and ridgid 3 blade . if you stop power the motor i go fall over the front becaus of the drag (quick stop) with the folding prop i can glide and keep standing
i guess the 2 blade give litle more power but almost simular for my feeling and within the low power range
max 50% trotle so far and i go like 25-30 km/h with both props
and again manny thanks for all the members in here to help me out , it guess i was never been able to dot this if i had no help and info from the forum
It’s a funny thing. The more time you spend perfecting the build, the less time you spend actually foiling. You need to reach the happy medium between those two.
Where are you based? I have the first version of the Veloce XL and the L (that fit that fuselage). Both are a millions times nicer than the X-over. They are more efficient and easier to predict their movement. They make the X-over feel like a slug.
Could you please tell more about your battery setup - and how long it lasts ? I wanted to prepare similar one, but sue to size constraints I can only make 12S10P
I have limited space and for such setup I would have to order custom cut of nickel connection plates - the box width limits batter row to 12S ( it is Takuma Carver V2 - I have bought only board)
Series links dont have to be straight lines.
Try this battery designer tool, altough it is paid to use I think (couple bucks for a month). It works really well and will give you all possible data, 3d files for printing the frames etc. Login or sign up · servius
Thanks - will try it.
Just that straight lines are easy to made with ready made nickel strips ( which I already have)
I will also check calculations - to so much more 14S9P / 14S8P would give over 12S10P
The tool can create custom busbars, theres some youtube guides how to use it. With the files, I made custom nickel busbars in China, which were of perfect quality and genuine nickel.
My contact person was yana, this is the website.
She informed me really well and always kept me up to date.
Highly recommend.
