Hi!
I have already build an jetsurboard and i have an 16s 42000mah battery i want to re-use for an efoil.
I also have an 75200vesc and two 24s 500a flier esc’s left from other projects.
I could not find any reviews on this motor but it seems to be the best option for my existing equipment?
Would the 120v version with the 16s battery be an good choice?
This JD-Power motor seems to be grat quality but might be underpowered?
http://www.jdpowersky.com/en/p-info.aspx?cid=46&id=130
Just by the available specs i’d say that the 70165 is probably a good motor, 12slot 10pole motor design is superior to a 18slot 6pole 6516x.
It will have 70^2/65^2 higher drag, caused by the larger diameter. +16%
Try to get the phase resistance for 100kV or 120kV, if it’s substantially less than the 69mohm(100kV) and 53mohm(120kV) that the 6516x motor has then it’s an interesting motor option.
The other motor is too weak, 3Nm torque won’t work.
Got the 70165 from hobiba, I get 8000W max output. Same quality as the 65161 motor.With the fsesc 75350 from flipsky
Really? That’s a lot, which battery current and voltage was it?
50v 160A battery current is 8000w in
To get 8000w out you’d probably need the double in due to the low efficiency at max power.
Yes, I got 14s liion running, around 50v and 160a, 7950W. Cutted the fliteboard propeller to 125mm.maybe also original Size will work, because I changed some settings after cutting. Now really smoothly running. Only thing I do not understand, that motor label shows 120kv, but the erpm devided by polepairs says its a 100kv with 14s.
The 8000W have been tested while static thrust test. Now I put the motor to a boat, as an electric outboard, no efoil. While running it gets over current fault at about 6000w, why this happens? I thought static thrust test is the most hard test scenario you can do to a motor. Thanks for ideas. 
I’ve learned the hard way (burned a motor) that these figures are all very overvalued. If you run the calculations, it seems like the motor should handle way more current than it actually can.
Based on your voltage and the motor you picked, max running current is only 95amps so 4700W. If you’re running over this, the motor will burn / over current at some point. They also do not specify how long the motor can handle the “peak” current but from past experience I would just plan to stay at or bellow the 95amp figure.
Interestingly enough, I’m looking at this motor to replace my burned one (different companies motor and smaller size that was amp overvalued so I toasted it). I’ll be curious to know how it works out for your build. I’m in talks with the company Hobiba now. If you don’t mind me asking, where did you purchase it and what did it end up costing you?
I’ll try to attach the motor spec sheet for your reference.
You can buy it from hobiba directly, just send an Email to them. I burned the controller instead. 
but this was because forgetting only ones turning phase filters off. And one time is enough you get no second Chance. Thats the reason why I build no custom board. I need the money and time for new controllers and motors. 
Today the new fsesc 75350 arrived will test the next weeks what I get out of the 70165 with him. Will have to add a water cooling. Does anybody know if only a hose without a pump can Lift the water high enough about 60cm while running only some km/h. Which speed is needed to do it like this?
I’m talking with Hobiba directly now so we’ll see if I can get it ordered soon! (I may order their matching ESC too.)
I’m running a dumb FlyColor Flydragon 150A ESC currently and it didn’t go when the 66112 motor did thankfully. It’s air cooled with aluminum heat sync and I have a fan in the box with it to keep the temps off of the ESC. So far heat in the box hasn’t been an issue even after 1.5 hour rides on my still working but underpowered 6374.
For me, water cooling seems like a big issue. If you’re building the box into the board it’s probably not so bad, but I have an external box on the front of my board to help with weight distribution and so I can run the setup on different boards. There is no really good way for me to run a water intake line down to the foil from there. It adds drag and would require a water pump in my battery box too.
I would not recommend relying on water force (from board / boat speed) to run that system. The motor is using the most power during startup when there would be no board speed to force water through the cooling system. There are plenty of DC pumps out there to do this job though so it’s possible if you have a way to run a water line to the foil.
I’ve also thought about having a closed loop water / radiator cooling solution but having water pipes inside my battery box seems like a good way to flood it all and kill everything in there. Once I have a higher power motor I may be forced to reconsider, but currently, if the ESC is way over qualified to run the motor, it seems to run cool. I’ve never had it cut out due to overheat and that was even when my motor was pulling loads of power and burning up.
I had water flow at 5km/h on a vertical lift of 100 cm using just ram feed (no pump).
I build an electric outboard with the 70165, the motor has to work a lot more for this use and the controller also. For foiling I use the 70131 from freerchobby and a makerbase vesc 75200 without water cooling. But also thinking about water cooling without pump. I don’t want to here the annouying sound of the pump.
Could you please send me picture from your water inlet.mine does not work even on 20km/h
I don’t have a photo of the inlet but it’s just the end of the tube. Test the pathway by blowing air through it to confirm you don’t have a kink somewhere.
This is what I did.
The tube is free, I put hole 2cm under thw middle of the Torpedo cap which is mounted on the motorclamp. I couldn’t placed it Direct in the middle because it is only cap that I screwed. What diameter got your Silicon tube?
This is the size. I don’t understand where your inlet is from your description. Mine was in the center of the tip of the nose cone so directly inline with the flow of water. You also mention silicone tubing. If it is really flexible perhaps it’s collapsing at the inlet
Yes maybe the silicon itself is the problem. Got tube od10x7. My Position is not in the center it is 2cm out of the middle. Maybe this also could be a reason.
