Help with budget E-Foil

I’m new to e foil building so I was wondering if I can get some help making a system that will work. I have built foils and RC cars so I should be able to piece everything together. Anyway, this is my drive setup so far:

Motor: 6384 Outrunner

ESC: Flycolor 150A (Marine) Max of 6S

Custom prop: havent got to it yet.

Custom carbon foil

Custom 4,4 Board

Battery: Help!

My goal is to build one as cheap as possible and I don’t need it to go very fast because I am making a low speed foil with an adjustable angle of attack so it should be able to get up at a very low speed. I am stuck on the battery because RC cars don’t have as huge of a power surge as an e foil. I have heard the 6384 can draw close to 120A when getting out of the water and I don’t want to hurt my battery too badly. If someone knows of a 6s battery preferably under $100 and over 12AH that would work with my setup that would be great.

I haven’t ordered anything yet because I am only focusing on the foil right now so if you have a change that you would make please let me know.

I forgot to mention I am only 50kg so I dont need a ton of power, thats why I went with the 6384

I used 6384 with 6s and 170mm Prop. Turnigy 6s 12Ah 2x
With this Prop the max current by start the board 80 A.
When you fly, you need 32 - 35A by 25km/h.
Greetings Frank

Do you realy fly 25km/h at 35A and 6S? That’s about 800watts. Most of us need atleast double that. Or do you use 2 x 6S in series?

He’s super light at like 60kg and also using a prop that quite a bit bigger.

And a nice and large BIC windfoil front wing too … :wink:

[Uploading: IMG_2020052

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27min 6km 24AH on 6s Lipo would be average current 53,3A or 90Wh/km ?
Average Speed 13kmh

Lets say you only use 80% of 24AH
Still average current 42,6A or 73Wh/km

Nobody can break the law of physics

My Suggestion for a Budget solution:
10s10p 30Q
63100 or 63XX
200A Flipsky Vesc

60Wh/km is easy possible with 20-22kmh, so you get 15km or 40min.
Maybe less.

Thank you for all the suggestions, I’m working on finding a suitable profile for the front wing right now and will update as soon as I get the foil done. I have had some bad experiences with lipos in the past and I’m trying to find a li ion 18650 solution instead. It has proved to be very hard since most cells are only around 1C but I think I might be able to buy a few 15Ah or so batteries and then stitch them together in parallel to give me a higher discharge rating that will match the demand of the esc.

Also, I’m not disregarding your reply V_S but since I’m only 15 and super light the 6s system should be able to hold up just fine. Then again I’m not an expert at this and have barely just started.

Heyho.
This would be the cheapest efoil i’ve ever heard of. First of all i wouldn’t trust this ESC because i have seen like 3 burned out Hobbyking 200A Boat-ESC’s till now, but it’s your choice.
Where are you from? Maybe there is someone with a good spotwelder in your Region who can help you building a custom Battery, for example: 6s4p Samsung 30Q would cost around 100€ with 12Ah / ~1,3kg and a discharge Rate of 60A permanent. But i would highly recommend you a higher batteryconfig.

The Battery was not empty :upside_down_face:

Sorry im a little confused, are you running your batteries in series or parallel? Also, whats the highest current draw you have gotten because im looking for a battery with a built in BMS and I dont want to burn it out. I know earlier you said around 80A getting up but have you gotten any higher peaks than that?

Thanks

The Battery is parallel.
The max. Current 80A by start the board.
Greetings Frank

Like the most of us, i’m riding 12s (2x 6s in series). In my opinion it wouldn’t make any sense to go lower than that. My motor current is limitet to 150A, that makes around 100A battery current @ ~40km/h.
You can check out these two metr logs from yesterday: the only difference is my driving style, rookie vs reckless :wink:
https://metr.at/r/ArfBT
https://metr.at/r/G23Kf

So if you realy want a BMS you can go for a “charge only” BMS, which only doesa stuff like balancing and overcharge protection. in this case you need to use your ESC for undervoltage and ovcercurrent protection.

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