Larsb review of 72124 motor

@Konstantin_Cunichin:
Checking options for a winding, 11 turns of 1.2mm wire should be easy for manufacturer, that’s close to 30% more copper than original winding. I can in theory fit 15T with some room left for imperfections.

When taking into account the entry and exit wires in slots then i think 13T is the maximum possible with this wire.

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Sizing the needed wire for the 8T winding (i’ll wind each tooth separately)
75mm stator plus endcaps: 80mm
8 turns for each coil
50mm start and end margin
Estimated coil wire cut length (80x2+8.3xpi)x8+50x2=1590mm

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Winding 1mm diameter copper is super hard. I wound a large outrunner with 2 times 1.25mm diameter and it took me days and muscle aiching. I used a large vice mounted to a large table which held the copper wires so i stretched them and used the mass of the iron to literally hammer the threads into the slots.
I would never do it like this again. With higher amount of threads life will become much easier and the fill factor is almost same.

In fact, LIFT (left) sells heavily oxydated motors, FR (right) sells shining motors :rofl:
Btw, where did you get those pict from ?

I’ve done 1mm too but i didn’t find it that hard. Thickest i’ve done is 2.5x1.25 square where the wire is like a copper bar. Still found that OK to wind. What i do is to shape the wire with levers and wedges, not by pulling with my hands.

The fill is never the same on multi wire winds as all the unavoidable wire crossings take up space. One 2.5x1.25 equals twentyfive 0.4mm diameter wires… try to keep those untangled for 8 turns :smiley:

Yes you are right, i used wooden bars additionally to align the threads on the long straight way. But how do form the sling around the corner, the winding head? Seems almost impossible to me. Also the insulation must not be damaged. I used Capton tape to separate the layers at least in the winding head. Might be overkill. Do you have some pictures winding these copper bars?

55% fill with room to spare, i think 60% would’ve been possible but not more.

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Could any of you hand rewinders do a video about this? I would love to see how this is done!

There’s plenty on youtube. If you search ”rewinding turnigy rotomax” there’s a nice video by a norwegian guy (if i remember it correctly)

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Top one on the forum , bottom mine when I serviced it

What do you use to take coating off before soldering ?

For multistrand wires i’ve used molten NaOH salt bath, dangerous but effective
For single wire winds dremel :smile:

Lackabziehpinzette :hugs:

Thanks, i haven’t seen those before :+1:

Otherwise this small bit looks nice:

EDIT: price is 350 EUR… forget it

Got the wire today! Now i just need to find some winding time :smile:
image

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Is it class H ? How much ºC can it handle ?

It’s class H, 200deg C
The varnish on the 2.5x1.25 wire i’ve tried before is incredibly tough so this is high quality wire.

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Super excited to see the results.
Please do some static tests comparing it to 65 flipsky motor(I do not have one so I can’t compare myself).
If It’s not superior to Flipsky then a general redesign is in order(otherwise it kinda defeats the purpose of making it)

You have an idea how you’ll wind it ?

Maybe you can try following :

1 strand in hand (of your rectangular wire of 2mm²)
7 turns
Star connection

Will give around 47% fill factor which should be doable and 6707 RPM unloaded at 55V (122 kV).

Just my calculations.

Aiming for 8T delta at 150kV and 50%
I think you have an error, 7T star results in kV 99 (109x11/7/1.73)

Even 6T star at 116kV 38% is an OK winding
5T star at 31% is no improvement, just fixed winding issue.

We’ll see what’s doable for me. This is the first inrunner i do and i probably won’t press out the stator if not absolutely needed