I did it. Not the smartest design but now it works and it seems watertight.
Electronics it’just an Arduino and NRF24i+ 2.4GHz transceiver with its powering module. All the other stuff are simply LiPo charger, step up converter to do the 5V, Nano battery and some LEDs. Wiring diagram and Arduino sketches for that are in DIY remote threads
Maybe I could do it. Seeing as everybody else will probably ask, I might as well be the first. Can you share your STL files for the remote?
No problem. Let me gather all the files first… because I printed like 4 or 5 different versions before this one
Thank you. The remote looks comfortable to use. Impressive work MaB, you are an asset to this forum.
Some more happy rides, learnt to run circles on the foil, get up and survive a very decent speed for long runs and all of a sudden board got noisy, like a loud vibration… up to the point where the motor got almost stuck.
Gearbox gone. I guess it’s because the green Loctite did not allow the thrust bearing to work.
Full summer, no more leakage, all dialed in and I’m out of the game for this f…k.ng gearbox. This is sad.
Anybody with an extra 4:1 or 5:1 just drop me a message, i need a replacement urgently.
I have one I won’t be using. Its a ple 60-8 though. Where are you located? I am in the U.S.
Levelnull might still have his last Neugart PLE40 5:1.
I sent him a message today, let’s see if it still available. In the meantime I’ve to extract the motor ensemble from the tube, and this alone will be a tough task! It got stuck since I slipped it in for trial, with heat transfer paste!
@Mab,
I am printing your prop in PETG at 50% infill with honeycomb structure, 235 degrees, bed at 70 degrees with raft, and printing head slightly higher than with PLA so that PETG can really spread flat at 0.3mm (I consider 0.3 to bond much stronger then 0.2 and will only need a tiny bit more sanding)
Thanks a lot Mab for the STL !
Did you get this STL with a 70mm whole as you requested ? If Mab is too busy, I may do it for you. Just ask.
Cheers
I used Polycarbonate PC-Max at 100% but it should work… blades are almost full even with lower infill. Which part do you need modified? Today no but tomorrow I can do the mods, no problem
@MaxMaker this is a prop for 80100 outrunner, it’s a Solidworks file so you can rework it as you like:
80100 129pitch
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Thank you very much!
this 80100 is the one i will be printing out soon. ill let you know how it prints
do you have any pictures of your broken gearbox? And can you explain a little more what you think was the issue. I am pretty sure a lot of people might be interested to avoid it for theirs own build, including me. Thanks in advance.
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Today I had to cut the motor pod in pieces to get gearbox out… I still have to open it but I’m afraid that to blame is the prop shaft pushing into the gearbox an not loading the thrust bearing. Will take pictures of it.
This prop is absolutely gorgeous, well done @MaB . Now I have the dilemna of either printing a larger duct than Pacificmeister’s (more drag), or scaling your prop down to fit PMs duct (less torque). That’s for a 500 KV SSS
I don’t know exactly which size of my prop you printed, but I remember to have one filed down a little to fit my duct… which should be wider than Pacificmeister one, apparently…
The problem could arise because I designed all the pod parts taking Pacificmeister as big inspiration but basically from zero, so you might have to modify my duct collar, probably…
After all this destruction…
It will reborn from its dust!! New joint and double bearing/seals is arriving!
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Is that a new gearbox? Whats the brass piece on the gearbox output shaft?
A coupling joint with slot for the key. Taken from a small bow thruster for boat. I will reduce it a little in length and diameter and add the 8mm stainless steel shaft. This time I want a proper shaft, sliding on its key slot to force only against the thrust bearing.