I took it for a spin today. These are my initial observations. I just was running how ever the VESC tool set it up. I have adjusted nothing. running FOC, current mode.
This is how the Maytech V2 screen looked within 2 minutes in the water. The display is very hard to see in bright sunlight.
The 65161 120KV with FR prop seems to have much less torque than my 83100 80KV out runner 7.25" yamaha prop I run on my last E-foil. The 65161 seems to slowly gradually accelerate until it is on the foil. Then when on foil it is clear than it would be way faster than I want to go. The 83100 had so much torque it would just hop out of the water. I am thinking the 65161 100KV may have been a better choice for me. I run 14S
I was worried that the 65 cm gong mast might be to short. I like it, Glad I chose it.
I am happy with the 5 foot length. I would not go any shorter.
I am going to have to move my receiver or extend the antenna because I am having the same problem a lot of you guys had. The receiver goes to far under water, and I loose radio control.
Gasket worked perfect. Everything stayed dry.
I like the feel of the Gong M regular foil. Feels more like powder sking than my last foil.
The hose i am using is 1/4" OD 5/32" ID. I have only been out 1 time. I think it was working but I really could not tell because my cooling water exits under the board. So I added a length of tubing so I can see the flow of water. I hope to see to water next time I am out. Hopefully that will be tomorrow.
I am running the motor configuration exactly how the Wizard tool set it up. I did not even know there is something called a XML config file. The VESC worked right from the start. Tonight was the first time I looked at the parameters. I have more questions.
Yes it was easy to get the VESC information to the remote receiver.
If I remember correctly. The yellow (TX) and green (RX)wires shown in the photo run down to the receiver board. They connect TX—>RX, and RX–> TX. I think I recall you have to configure the remote to use the VESC data.
I finally got around to trying the duct. I did not like it. As soon as I took off I could feel the difference. I felt and heard more noise coming from the motor. Normally it is very quiet and smooth feeling. Normally I fly at about 55% on the throttle. I estimate I was at about 65% for the same performance with the duct.
Yeah! You can definitely feel the difference when riding with a duct vs no duct! However, you will also feel the difference if you fall on the spinning prop…
After I took the ride with the duct. I removed the duct and put it in the back seat of my truck. It got too hot in the truck and the PLA plastic got deformed.
Hi Mac
I’m curious about this previous power supply battery pack you referred to.
Did this not work out?
You seem to have used a more conventional pack by the end of build.
Seems like it could be a easier way to put a battery together.
Is anyone actually seeing a benefit from using a duct? Other than it may help from a safety stand point. I did not model the duct. Your correct there is some additional clearance.
I just went for my first ride of the season. It went well. When I went to charge the battery I found about a cup of water in the enclosure. from the looks of things It is possible that this is not the first time water reached the VESC.
Does any one know what those 3 damaged components in the bottom left corner of the top photo are?
It is direct FETs (type should be written on it), unfortunately, some of your solder pads burned so it is probably not repairable.
There are some chinese 75300 clones called 75200 which are cheaper than the original 75300. Some of these worke fine, others failed under load because of a production issue.
I got one from HGL-Tech, it works reliable so far but it is sold out. It is identical to the maker-x HI300 which is still available. It runs the 75300v3 Firmware.
