Somehow my fuse holder melted last Friday. The 150A fuse is alright.I’m using 8AWG cables.
Could it be that the wire connection with that little scrub screw is a bad construction for connecting the cables to the fuse? How can I prevent that heat next time?
I have the exact same holder. My one had a little metal pipe with a hole drilled into the wall. (Its about 6mm high and 5mm diameter.) I inserted my cables into that pipe and soldered them on. The grub screw pushes that whole pipe into the connector. It was too long with all the solder, so I shortned it.
I didn’t test it yet. Hope that still helps you.
Bugger, It will be a bad connection its actually pretty common fault, need to pack it out with more copper to fill the whole hole or use a boot lace crimp then crank the grub screw real tight. See crimp below
I bought this one yesterday. Like you guys wrote I will solder the wire next time in addition.
It’s matter of contact surfaces, if it’s a grub that holds and do the contact… the resistance raise and it melts. I’ve seen melted bolts fuse holders due to the plastic that held one of the bolt deformed by heat…then the contact got loose enought to cause some ohm of resistance and at that point…the whole thing start smoking! I don’t know your fuse holder but in the worst scenario…solder everything.
I have bought the same fuse holder again and give it a second shot. This time I soldered the cable into the reduction shell and clamped the shell with the scrub screws. Because if I solder everything there is no chance to change the fuse anymore without desoldering.
Result: The whole shitty thing melted again…
@MaxMaker: Be careful with your solder connections regarding that shitty fuse holder
So this time I bought an other one.
And I also will change all connector from battery to ESC from XT90 to AS150. Even the solderjoints at the XT90 connector on my Multistars disconnected.
The pod is running with a scaled up Hiorth V1 propeller model (160mm). I think that’s the reason why I got really high amps.
Oh shit… What size fuse did you use? Maybe it got hot enough to just about glow? Is the plastic around the shell melted too?
I’m using 150A. The fuse survived. It is looking again exactly like the first picture I have posted.
Is the fuse screwed down tight?
Yes, very tight. I really need to because otherwise the scrub screws collided with the plastic shell.
I mean the fuse itself on the inside.
Yes those screws were tightened as well. I can make a picture of the second melt down.
Impressive!! Did you managed to melt down the solder or it’s the nylon that went soft?
Have you measured the current? I would steer over bolt style fuse holder, the models for ANL-DIN fuses (or CNL)…they are the same but with different tripping delay curve, with a CNL you might run on a 100A in place of 150 and it will keep up, but will be ready to trip. A 150 fuse very likely won’t blow below 200A. Don’t know which motor do you have but at 200 I’m afraid SSS360 or 500 become a ball of melted copper, smoked taste!
I mean a fuse holder like this. Maybe smaller, this is from work, a bit overkilled because it handle 350amp and more on bowthrusters, but keep in mind that we make a continuous utilize on our Efoil so better be safe!
Before I used 120A. This was to less.You are right, I really need to measure the amps now. I still think that the most heat will be generated by the insufficient connection to the cables in the fuse holder.
Ordered some of this type of fuse. Easy to mount properly
I ordered a new one too now…
Which one did you ordered? I bought this one now:
@Hiorth: Thanks again for your suggestion. Are you using this fuse in your recent setup and what holder are you using?
Amazon.de I hope this is better. Should have bought yours.