Very nice work! I can´t see any water pump in your system or doesn´t it needed?
Regards,
Pablo
If you think the branches may be prickly, you can file them down. The remaining volume would still allow them to be manageable (screw/unscrew). Not sure it would create some anodization issue.
It doesnt need a water pump. 5x8 tube running from the front of the motor fairing has enough
water pressure to do the job.
Maybe the photos make them look bigger than they are. They are a non-issue in regards to safety and I have never felt them getting on the board. Of all the edges and rotating parts on an efoil to worry about, I’m amused that these would get a mention.
Hey @michion, I was looking at doing my gasket on my new board with mold star. I was going to use EPDM to make the gasket to pour the mold star in, but I did a small test and the mold start didn’t cure next to the EPDM . I though there was something on sulfur causing that issue, but I can’t see to find mention about that now. How did you do the wall for the gasket pour?
I’ve been doing several of these lately. Make sure to clean the surface thoroughly with acetone before the pour. I found XPS (smooth pink panther foam), MDF (with a layer of epoxy), fiberglass, carbon fiber all to work well as surfaces to pour against.
Also note that high humidity has an adverse effect on the curing. Vaseline works as a release agent, but definitely causes problems in the curing.
100% silicone will stick to the Mold Star 30 and bond it to another surface, but not as well as the adhesive designed by Smooth-on.
Patience, degassing, level surfaces…
All that said, I’m curious which foam @michion used for his barrier.
Yeah was thinking of cncing wood/mdf/foam wall, but that seems like a lot more work then weatherstripping. And also took the CNC apart again to make it “better” 
so I need a couple evenings to get it cutting again. (was going to cut some aluminum for a esc box)
Humidity shouldn’t be a problem right now, thermostat says about 29% humidity inside right now.
Got a degas pot ready to go. Hopefully the amount of mold star should be enough to do the whole seal.
What CNC you running?
A brycej deluxe special
Rebuilt redesigned about 3 times over that last 10 years. Had used cncrouterparts(avidcnc) older parts. But now switched to linear rails and ballscrews. But probably shares some ideas with what they have done in the last few years. Cuts around 4.5 x 6 feet. Working on making everything more rigid now.
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Anything containing sulpher will retard the cure on platinum silicones.
Have a read of the product guide that came with it, its all in there.
I used a white window sealing foam. I think its a PVC foam.
I generally stay away from any black foams or rubbers when using this stuff.
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Please share which drill bits you are using to mill foam
Thanks Michion, I’ll have to read that over. I got knock off one called molding star 
so I didn’t get all the same info Sorry! Something went wrong! But it seemed work well except for my sulfur issue on my test pieces.
@Vitalii I had found a couple long lengths bits on amazon that worked OK. Probably not ideal for foam, but long cutting length! Sorry! Something went wrong! and Sorry! Something went wrong!
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Good thing you tested it first. Smart! 
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My new Surf oriented motor mast combo.
Looks a little dangerous up there on this board so I think I’ll build another board with a bit more protection from the board.
Could probably use this board if I’m careful.
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Not sure. It’s an Armstrong foil with factory graphics.
I think the story goes that Armie met an graphic designer on an airplane once and she did the graphics for Armstrong foils. Hopefully it keeps the sharks away too.
How is the motor holding on the mast clamp ? Can you share the basic idea ? Coz I see no holes for the screws.
Is the mast clamp a separate part ? Looks like a part of the mast righ now, not sure if you put few layers of cf above and then painted it, trying to figure out…
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Hello
how did you make your hatch and the sealing of the whole, because I do not see any seal on the photo
Thank you
The seal is blue and it is so beautifully done
@michion the question is : how do you stop from leaking under? the edges are perfect , I supposed you use the hatch to mold it on the board ? Or you did a complete other frame to do the seal ?
The whole motor mount is carbon fiber with two carbon fiber 5mm pins that slide in from the side. These pins fit into groves on the FR motor and hold it. Cant see the pins as they are painted over.
There is a bit of information about how I made the seal further up in the thread @philippe
@Alexandre, I just used a foam tape to seal the inside edge and poured the seal in place. The edge of the hatch was polished to a mirror finish to achieve the best possible seal but in hindsight, this was probably not necessary.
Have you thought about making the prop forward facing? Seems it would actually be safer this way, especially if you put a skeg in front of it.
I am really keen on seeing how this high mount setup works out for wave riding.