I stumbled across this excellent forum and couldn’t resist having a go.
My question is, I already have an 80100 130kv brushless outrunner left over from an electric paramotor project, is it worth using this motor or should I get the flipsky 65161 120kv instead?
Although it works, most builders that run an “outrunner in wet” setup changed to 6384 or 63100 as these are more efficient. If I’d start from scratch, I would use a 65161, 120KV with 12mm shaft/M8 thread. No need to change the bearings and coat with epoxy.
Thank you, I kind of suspected that, think I’ll get the 65161, it makes sense.
Depending on your patience, if you want to start your build right away while waiting for your new motor to arrive then I would give that 80100 a go, however from my experience you should start working on your surfboard first, find where you want your mast to be mounted, waterproof hatch or box, then the electronics, then the motor (the inrunner) is pretty much plug and play.
OK thanks for that. Finding a place to get the motor from is proving a little tricky, direct from Flipsky seems to be the best place for the 65161 120kv version with prop but pricey at over $500 with delivery to the UK.
Don’t get their prop, it’s too big, better use a flite prop or one from the forum. If you get a splined shaft you are limited to splined props. You can get the motor from BG: Flipsky 65161 120kv 6000w threaded shaft brushless motor amphibious waterproof for efoil/ejet boards/ebike Sale - Banggood.com
If you have BG points you can get 15% for 150 points.
Do you think the modified prop will be ok cut down and shaped as seen on other threads?
Yes, it would work but max speed will not be that high with 5" pitch.
I have ordered the following from Banggood
The prop was cheap so I can cut this down give it a fettle and see how she goes.
The remote I know isn’t water proof but I can try to waterproof of put it in one of those rubber sleeves
Hopefully the motor will work with my CC HV160 ESC
I have already got 24ah of 12s lipo’s from another project.
That should get you started. I wouldn’t use the antispark switch and just use a QS8 connector instead.
Thanks, those connectors look good.
Is there a reason you wouldn’t use the anti spark switch? Do they limit current? I like the idea as it switches the power on and off to the ESC.
Most of them could not fullfill the expectatition and burned. Bad thing of a burned FET is, it stays closed=switched on—not exactly what you want. Anti Spark connectors (AS150, QS8) and a 200A fuse could be a simple solution. Forklift relays work as well but add around half a kilo of weight and require an antispark circuit. Timed relay that preloads the ESCs caps through a resistor to protect the contacts from sparks before switching on the main relay. I built it like this but I think it’s overcomplicated and adds some sources of faillure (relais).
And could a resettable fuse be used for switching on and off power ?
The problem is when the ESC and the battery are in the same waterproof box, which can’t be easily opened each time to turn on and off the power. The anti Spark connection between ESC and battery can’t be excessed this way.
Yes but don’t buy the cheap Chinese ones from Ali, they all trip @60A regardless of the rating printed on them. Approved model from the German speaking group: BLUE SEA - 150 A DC - 285-Serie Sicherungsautomat für EINBAU | Mörer Schiffselektronik
So no need for a anti Spark switch.
I just need to mount it watertight through the lid of the box.
But I assume when I turn on and off power with the fuse, it doesn’t prevent sparks, like a proper QS8 for example
Yes you need antispark plugs and the fuse switch is only for emergency switch off. You need to switch on the fuse first and then connect the AS plugs, otherwise you will get a spark on the fuse switch.
Hmm ok. I wanted to use it as the main On/Off switch.
When the anti Spark Plug is already connected it doesn’t help, does it?
Since everything is sealed in the waterproof box, I can’t access the connector between ESC and battery.
How deadly are sparks for the ESC anyway?
Or maybe it is possible to modify a resettable fuse to work like an anti Spark Plug
All you need is a resistor (500 Ohm, 5W) that bypasses the switch. With the switch off and connected, you still have Battery voltage on the ESC but current is limited to 0.1A (@50V). Disadvantage is, it’s not totally switched off, when in OFF position.