That’s awesome.
So no need for a anti Spark switch.
I just need to mount it watertight through the lid of the box.
But I assume when I turn on and off power with the fuse, it doesn’t prevent sparks, like a proper QS8 for example
Yes you need antispark plugs and the fuse switch is only for emergency switch off. You need to switch on the fuse first and then connect the AS plugs, otherwise you will get a spark on the fuse switch.
Hmm ok. I wanted to use it as the main On/Off switch.
When the anti Spark Plug is already connected it doesn’t help, does it?
Since everything is sealed in the waterproof box, I can’t access the connector between ESC and battery.
How deadly are sparks for the ESC anyway?
Or maybe it is possible to modify a resettable fuse to work like an anti Spark Plug
All you need is a resistor (500 Ohm, 5W) that bypasses the switch. With the switch off and connected, you still have Battery voltage on the ESC but current is limited to 0.1A (@50V). Disadvantage is, it’s not totally switched off, when in OFF position.
Ah ok. I see
Would that be better then a complete disconnection with the chance of sparks?
I don’t have a fuse currently.
I open the hatch up my board, plug in the QS8 then shut the hatch and carry it down to the water with the remote off, so i don’t accidently bump it.
When I’m done, I shut off my remote, carry it out of the water and open the hatch and disconnect the battery.
No need for on/off button that can fail.
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I need one since the ESC and the battery will be in the same sealed box in my build.
The way you plug in the battery, I will plug in the three motor wires.
But there will be no way to access the plug between ESC and battery.
If that is the way you want to do it, I would try and find a way to do a waterproof QS8 loopkey.
Something like this How to make a XT90 Loop key - How-Tos & Esk8 mechanics - esk8.news: DIY Electric Skateboard Forums
I don’t think there is any anti spark switch I would trust at these currents. Maybe if your vesc supported a on/off button, not sure on the idle current draw on those.
How are you charging your battery, another connector in the board somewhere?
The port for charging and the for the three motor wires will be on the outside of the box (most likely amphenol for the motor wires.
The idea is that I can take the whole “all electronics in one single box” out and put it in a different board.
That way I wouldn’t need a VESC for each board. I would only need to connect the three motor wires and maybe reconfigure the vesc through the app if the second board uses a different motor.
I too have thought about a loop key. That could be a good solution. And since only one of the power cables gets disconnected I wouldn’t have to worry about electric shocks should I pull the loop key in the water.
It’s a shame that there is no reliable anti Spark switch that can turn on and off your board with the push of a button
I do like the idea of using a resettable fuse as the main switch. However as it is, it wouldn’t prevent sparks. And with a bleeder resistor it never would be truly disconnected
It can be done with a forklift relay an a circuit with some relays and an arduino. I built it with a 433MHz garage door remote switch. It is just rather complicated and adds 500g for the relay.
You need two additional arduino relays and a separate voltage converter with 12V 5V outputs. Arduino controls the smal relays based on the remote state. When switched on, first bypass the forklift relay contact wit a 500 ohm resistor for 4s, then switch on the forklift relay (via arduino relay) and open the AS resistor. Forklift relay coil consumes 10W. PM me if you really want to build it like this. Arduino programming would be necessary.
I had a similar goal for my board. And I am working on a 2nd board where i can swap between the two. I did this with the motor, mast, ESC (and receiver) all connected together permanently (no connectors but I could still unsolder it). ESC is in waterproof box I milled out on the top of the mast. Out of that is my connector that goes to the battery and a wire for external reciever antenna. I have 2 batteries I can swap between now.
Here i am pressure checking it.
Aluminum box works great for passive cooling as well!
Edit: link didn’t appear to work properly. Here are done pictures
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So I’m starting to gather parts, the motor 65161 120kv came in 7 days from China, all tested successfully on the bench with my Castle Creations phoenix HV160 ESC.
The prop is packaged by Flipsky and is the 7.25 x 5 - A
By all indications this needs modifying but I’m getting confused by the shear amount of information on here, does any body know what diameter would be best cut down to? 150mm maybe?
This prop is just to get me started.
Hi to all,
I will use this post to ask you about motors.
I have try to get in touch with @Flying_Rodeo to get their propulsion system but there is no chances.
With Flipsky I do not feel very comfortable, I saw many of you guys having problems with them. I am going to invest a lot of money on the eFoil, so I’ll like to find a good motor, well and other things. But I want to know which motor I’ll use to build the battery pack for it.
Could you let me know which motors do you trust most?
Thank you in advance
Where did you see that. Loads of people have no issues and loads of companies are using the same motor…
The battery pack will be the same regardless of which motor you use…
Here in this forum, maybe I just saw the bad comments, and I saw people did some mods to make it more water resistant .
Minimum to give them enough power, or just not too much to burn it, no?
hey mate, where did you order your motor from? direct flipsky?
I got the motor from Banggood, think it was £310 + 10 postage to the UK
Things are coming together now. Gong Allvator rise M 1500cm2. The motor adaptor which jeffM posted works great. I should do a build thread really.
Prop is the Flipsky 7.25x5 cut down to 150mm.
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Hi, can I have your thoughts on some readings I have taken on a first wet run.
Motor flipsky 65161 120kv
Propeller flipsky 7.25 x 5 cut down to 150mm
Battery 12s lipo
It seems very powerful at max throttle its pulling 150amps and over 6500w its also pulling the voltage down because I’m not using all the lipos I have in parallel.
How many amps do you think I should be pulling max?
Do you think I need to cut the propeller down further?
