Just to follow up. The «silicone potting thermally conductive chinese ali glue» seems to be functional and allows for reversible pottings. They do not specify hardness so it’s normally not for mechanically demanding applications. Silicone in general has decent thermal transport. On the other hand the urethane polymers like Simpact 85A emits a lot of heat when curing so I would not use that kind for anything heat sensitive like battery packs. A small batch tested reached around 55-60 deg C. I would like to point out that if you forget to premix each of the A or B components individually before messuring up and mixing a batch, it might never harden…
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Where does the small pin go after re- assembly?
The stator has a groove for the pin. It serves as a torsion lock.
Ok so its obvious where it goes. Thanks!
Thought i should post my results after using my water proofed cheap BDUAV motor… in short its dead.
One of the phase wires within the motor end cap corroded so badly it snapped off so close to the windings it was unrecoverable.
I suspect i had crushed that particular wire (the end of the windings) against the black end cover thing.
I have since replaced it with a waterproof Saite motor which cost 4 times as much but performs significantly better (not sure if its because of the damaged wire).
Also a lot of epoxy chipped off both the inner casing and windings… because i used a regular laminating epoxy - even though i went to great lengths to prep the surfaces. There are much better resins/products to use (mentioned somewhere on this forum).
So my advice is:
- be careful when reassembling… especially the wires and windings.
- dont use regular epoxy resin!
I have read of some guys not doing any waterproofing and just spraying with CorrosionX after rinsing and drying after each session. I would prob go with that if i use a cheap BDUAV motor again.
This is my experience… and i am no where near as experienced as many others on this forum.
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