Hi, I came up with my v1 board design in Fusion 360 and would appreciate some feedback what could be improved.
It is definitely inspired by the Audi design, since I like the angular design, but I still tried to give it my own spin.
The overall size is 154x68x12
BOTTOM
SIDE
TOP
Looks great, i would remove the chamfer on the bottom rear edge. If this edge is sharp then water lets go of the board instead of stick. It lowers start resistance just a bit - but it isn’t critical - if you like it the way it is then don’t change it.
Sizewise it’s good, i would maybe take it down a bit in size, 145x65 or so since less is better and i don’t think anyone needs larger than that.
Thanks. Some boards do have this rocker (I believe thats what it’s called) and others dont…
Should the side chamfers on the bottom maybe go straight from front to back, instead of this curved shape?
I think straight is probably better for liftoff but it looks too ugly. One advantage of a straight board is you can easily cut it down if you want. I did this three times on my first board, but that was longer than your dimensions from the start.
This looks real nice! Will you share the file?
Thanks. I might share it for
The rocker at the back is probably not ideal. Most boards do not have one, so I will remove it first. I have no idea if the design is any good, but I hope it will be 
Damn. I let u know once i win a lottery!
Bud, people foil with a riflecase as deck it seems.
Your design looks good as well as the size. Will you build your own battery? What size do you anticipate for the main battery enclosure?
That is actually a good point Yes I will build my own battery, but I have no fixed size yet. I will buy a prebuilt hatch and probably have a bigger compartment than needed, because I would like to store to remote and maybe some simple tools in it as well.
Also a good shape for a tow boogie!!!
K
I’m a bit lost about the mast placement… Could not find something definitive for it. Any suggestions or links for me?
I found some older threads that say the center of the mast should be around 20-25% of the length of the board, measured from the back. For my board that would work out to 30,8 to 38,5cm.
I guess I might go with a value of 35cm. Any more insights maybe?
Ok I tried to design the most simplistic and easy to manufacture adapter plate for the GONG v2 Mast plate.
Not sure if it’s necessary to recess the adapter plate into the board. The connection piece will be made out of Paulownia wood (bit heavier but stronger than Balsa). This needs to be designed. The adapter plate or the wood piece will for sure get a small recess for 1-2 seals for waterproofing.
@vincent and @Kian would you mind giving your thoughts on this? Would be highly appreciated
Plate bottom
Plate side
Plate top
Plate and board
What was your plan again? Passive cooling of VESC? Where will you place it? Is the piece of wood the only thing to catch all the forces on the mast?
The cable holes is def too small for 3x AWG8 to pass.
The adapter plate looks mighty fine. just needs to be bolted on some rigid beefy skeleton inside the foam?
Yes thats correct. I want to passively cool the VESC. Unfortunately I’m on a business trip right now and cannot share more screenshots, but the layers from bottom to top look like this:
The GONG Mast plate is screwed to the self made Aluminium adapter plate (that can be seen in the screenshots above). On the other side of the adapter is waterproof Aluminium case that houses the VESC. The case should transfer the heat to the adapter plate and the adapter to the mast plate and mast itself…
Those parts are basically a fixed unit.
The bottom of the board features a 18mm thick wood plate with M8 inserts, that is epoxied and glassed into the board. The bottom will for sure get a carbon patch for strength. The wood board will get a cutout because of the Alu case and VESC. It’s kinda looking like the Fliteboard design, but with simpler shapes and the board cutout will go all the way through, so that I can easily connect the VESC and battery from the top.
I hope this explanation makes sense :). I will share pics when I can
I kind of get the idea. Im going for a similar approach but the “wooden plate” will be an inox welded c-profile rectangle. The adapter plate+vesc box will be single unit.
So removing the mast, only the battery wires need disconnect as the vesc is (semi) permanently part of the mast unit.
Edit: The inox frame will be connected via 4 m6 bolts to a plate on the other side of the deck. It will be embedded, so no through hole, all mounted from below.
Hello, I am also cooling VESC againt aluminium. My VESC has fins, how would you recommend to apply thermal paste?
Sounds like a really nice design. I thought about having the adapter plate + vesc permanently installed as well, only with a through hole for the cables… But that means a large hole for the connector and i’m worried about the waterproof conmection between adapter plate and mast plate.
If there is an easy sealing option between adapter and mast plate, it would be a much more elegant solution.
I want to cut silicon sealings with my laser cutter and mill out a channel for it on the adapter plate bottom. Maybe even two rounds of sealings.
If that works, i could embed the adapter plate directly into the foam and totally skip the wooden plate
The idea is that the fets sink their heat into the plate it’s mounted on, and the plate is connected to the mast.
There needs to be thermal paste between vesc and heatsink
There is only the cable holes to worry about between mastplate and adaptorplate. This can be solved by silicone and/ or a proper cable gland.
The mastplate and adapterplate are not supposed to be seperated in my case.
tbh this is my 1st buildplan and i know jackshit about efoils, but mechanics i do feel. Dont trust a small single plate surface (embedded in foam with some CF around it) to cope with all the forces on a huge mast arm. Then again my build could become overkill…it’s a learning process after all!
