I weigh 78 kilos and it is not difficult for me to launch on a 27 liter Armstrong. But a 16 liter Slingshot is a completely different matter. If I launch using the heiguga method, I lack power. I see a bubble in the nose area of the board until the controllers turn off. The nose is very close to the surface, I lack only a little. If I launch using the Etiennebzh method (this is my main method), the board comes off and as a result, riding on my knees is not so difficult. It is difficult to stand up. When I stand up, I usually add gas and with the Slingshot I probably do it more abruptly than necessary. The board starts to gallop and I fall.
I think that in the future I will experiment with the shape and size of the blades and change the controllers from VESC to ESC, which work more effectively with power.
Another idea is to use four 8s3p batteries left over from my first-generation assistant in a 16s6p configuration. But that would require significantly smaller blades. And I’d have to pray hard that the motors don’t burn out )
I have similar issues with my setup, deep water start does not work as I do not manage to hold the board (24lt) under my feet effectively, it would probably work with footstraps.
With a 1600cm2 foil, it is very easy. But with a 1050, the transition from knee to on feet is not easy. I think as @Etiennebzh mentionned, you have to ditch this inyermediate step and go directly from belly on board to on your feet, right at the moment where the foil start to lift enough.
Here is me having a hard time trying to start the 1050cm2, I think we are dealing with similar blokage
Yes, some episodes are very similar). I used a Spitfire 900. Maybe I should have tried on a less roll sensitive wing like the 999.
Have you considered to set an upper power limit and a longer ramp up time?
I do that for foil assist. The limit is just a tiny bit below what a need to get up on foil.
That way I can just hold full throttle and pop up once I have enough speed, without dealing with the rodeo.
This should work. However, I prefer to use all the power. So, as an alternative, I choose to train the index finger. Especially since, I trained him for almost twenty years as a competitive shooter.
Hi All a little of topic but you guys seem really knowledgeable.
I am building a E-foil board and it is all going well so far, I’m looking for a bit of battery advice I have already purchased two 2.07kwh Samsung batteries that are used in many EV cars. My plans are to wire a BMS into each one for charging and bypass them for discharging I am going to use surlok connectors for the Main battery leads and have a XT-60 for precharge and charging using a Wate charger. I am using a FIRDUO Manatee100 VESC so I will set this up so its looks at the batter voltage and reduces power before shutting it off to protect it. I am going to connect all the balance leads with ring terminals because the battery works nicely for that. My main question is about fusing the batteries to protect the discharging and precharge, I am using a Flipsky 65161 motor so I am thinking 150A for the main 25mm2 cable and 30A for the precharge, my main confusion is with the placement of the fuses everyone has different opinions by the sounds of things I have drawn a wiring diagram with them on the negative side but all advice appreciated.
All my parts I would be happy to change if it makes a difference to safety (inc battery BMS etc)
I’ve linked my BMS here I have the 12S li 30A with BT: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32819508078.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.17.4ab41802qwV76W
Many Thanks
My Wiring Diagram:
Yes, try skip the knees, look at surf style popup. If your mast was further back in the box it would help by giving you a better chance to keep the nose of your board down while you pop up
Yesterday I tried Manta TakeOff. And I didn’t like it at all. Firstly, it is significantly inferior to my homemade product in terms of power. Secondly, it is very buggy - the connection was periodically lost, the reaction to the trigger was inadequate, with delays, often after you remove your finger the propeller continued to rotate. The controls also seemed inconvenient. By default, the power is set to 7, then during movement it needs to be increased by pressing the “plus” button. What are all these complications for?
I am also trying to start on a 7.4-liter Naish Macrochip. And I did not find any difference with the 16-liter Slingshot. I can also start and take off lying on your stomach and it is impossible to get up. I also tested several Axis Fireball wings and really liked the Fireball 1000
My plan was to use my FD assist plus, if I liked foiling sell it and upgrade to a Max or MF takeoff.
My Assist died so I’m on the path of unsuccessful builds, with one eventually working, but I think it will be better than either.
I followed the MF Facebook page and people had some issues, their travel version sounds like a nightmare, but the Takeoff seemed OK, but I was concerned about others who couldn’t get repairs or support.
Foil Drive seem to have issues with the latches and the Maytech remote.
I probably would have got a FD Max, which I would probably be using now instead of the usual waiting for parts for my next failed build, but the flexibility of design for better performance does appeal.
Thanks for your experience.
Watched a couple of Hadou BRUNNER videos and started taking off on my new 18L Appletree Skipper Short.
Wow - tiny board!!!
Everything works, I just ride. Oh yeah, I switched to a new voltage in the tow boogie - 16s. I welded two 8s6p batteries, 21700 lishen 4 a/h and I’m happy, everything works, the maximum speed increased from 28 to 35 km/h.
I also returned to hybrid foiling, made a box on the belt. It is easier to start, easier to pump, but did not cause any special emotions.
I decided to continue working on the Bremote V1. After all, I already have five kits, and the fact that they haven’t turned into finished remotes yet is quite disappointing. One of the reasons I decided to stop was my uncertainty about the reliability of the printed springs. Torsion springs at least worked somewhat, while other types invariably ended up in the trash. However, torsion springs weren’t suitable for me due to their large size. Then I remembered that I have quite a few AR-15 parts (yes, they shoot bullets, how awful). Without much thought, I made a trigger model adapted for this spring, and it works perfectly, exactly as I needed. This spring has withstood several thousand pulls, and I’m sure it will withstand several tens of thousands more. The only problem remaining was the selector spring. So I decided to seek help: I couldn’t decide which spring to use because the internal space was very limited. If you have any ideas or examples of solutions, I would be grateful for them.
I finally found a use for the old batteries 8s3p from the foil assist. Two batteries connected in series last me almost an hour of tow-boogie riding.
My personal messages are overflowing with various options, but due to my rigid thinking, I decided to do everything myself. This “spring” works perfectly.
This time, everything worked out with the Bremote, less than two years later. My mistake was using the internal ToTo mechanics. Now I’ve made a new model, maintaining the original Bremote’s parameters, and everything works as expected. However, the range is still insufficient and significantly inferior to the Maytech and Flipsky, reaching no more than 15 meters. Any tips to increasing the range?
After the first session, I decided I probably didn’t need differential steering for the tow boogie. Underway, halyard steering is much more convenient and efficient, since both motors are running. The only function I need now is the ability to turn the tow boogie back on course and bring it back to me using a tank turn.