Thank you for the offer, I’ll keep it in my mind 
I do have actually two 75100s in my electric mountainboard build and they hold up so far. But in hot conditions and under load they heat up quickly. It dependas on what you want to do. As the price difference was not that much I went with the bigger 75200s.
Update
Changed motor position: 18 cm more in front
Changed mast height/ motor horizontal distance. Moved from 50mm mast extension to 80mm (no cavitation anymore)
Added at the end of the alu profile a low tow point 3D printed part for more force on pitch axis
Observations:
- the reduced horizontal distance (20cm inner to inner propeller) between both motors makes auto steering more difficult
- roll axis more stable through moving COG more to battery box
- less drag than bottom mounted alu profile
I needed around 2000 - 2100 watts to get up on foil with 1600cm² foil and 85L board.
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This is interesting, I’ve read in other places that shorter mast leads to less pitching moment, but you’ve offset that by the motor mount angles?
It looks like the motor mount angle is tilting the thrust down, (ie pushing the nose up), I’m surprised that doesn’t increase the pitch on throttle? Maybe I’ve missed something
Continuing the discussion from My Tow Boogie Build 2025:
Hi Chris - great job on the build .
i have been on my own build for a couple of years now with 47+ tests on water for perfect displacement/planing hull design in choppy conditions and have come up with a great hull …
Im building moulds for it now…
i have beaten the stability issues / cavitation isses as well as designed an effective prop guard that protects the props and allows the unit to sit flat on the ground… ive been testing it by driving the boogie up beached and boat ramps at full power - hehehehe-
esc overheating issues recently overcome using flipski motors with buikt in vesc 65220 - robust and powerful motors for sure… so far so good with these
some early version pics of the build before the prop guards were installed here - Its been affectionatly named as “The bogan”
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yes - you are correct for single motors - the shorter mast heights reduce the torque twist immensely… 160mm or a shade under seems to be the ‘threshold’ perfect single motor height…(after 15 plus live tests on just mast height for single prop units)…i can confirm…
even 20mm deeper starts to make the boogie turn towards the torque twist and 40mm deeper becomes unridable at 6kw…
my tests with twin opposing motors have shown deeper masts are fine…ive tested right down to 200mm… Then you get a new set of issues - it becomes a mast strength issue with 3d printed stuff…To beat this problem i have designed motor masts with internal stainless bolt structure supports - i designed them for maytec and flipski motors - they print well in abs - They have neat enclosed wiring and can be wrapped in carbon or glass or a really sick finish…
Ive really done a lot of work on these and they are spot on…
Im after help with differential motor set up with bremote v2 at the moment…Ive got onto jasmin directly but any help pointing me at what to do would be great its not my thing…
Im happy to share some of my designs too in return…
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There are so many unique bits to this tow boogie. Well done. What material do you use to print your masts and motor holders? Thanks
Hi, I would like to build a tow boogie with a single 65220 motor and a 13s 10p battery. Do you think it would be enough to tow a rider with a 2500xxl foil and a weight of 90kg and a 155litre board?
Depends on the capacity of your battery and ESC/VESC. 13s10p is the configuration but tells us nothing about Amp or voltage (we can assume its a Li-ion so 48v).
I have a tow boogie running 12s Lipo, single 65161 motor pulling me at 70kg on a 28L board and 810cm2 foil with plenty power to run smaller board or foil.
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Hi, my setup is 13s 10p 48v 40ah, 21700 TenPower 40xg cells. The motor is a FlipSky 65220 * Firmware: [5.2 VESC TOOL3.0]l
- ESC type: [FlipSky 75100]
I’d like some advice. I already have all the materials, including a bodyboard.
Those cells seem very high power! The bottleneck is the VESC then which can do 100A continuous no? Your battery can deliver 3-4 times that.
What advice are you looking for?
All the parts will work together and be powerful. Just setup the VESC within its parameters to not blow it. With your big board to ride and big foil I dont see any problems.
I believe someone needs to tell him whether a single 65161 is enough powerfull in other Boogie setups to tow a man like him behind. 65220 is the same but esc needs to be limited to 100A continuous while it allows up to 120A (max motor current).
So my conclusion is if you tell him that 65161 is able to tow a guy like him then he will also succeed with 65220.
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Great! I’ve chosen a RADBUG 100 bodyboard as my board. I’ll use a 25cm 3D-printed mast gong v2 where I’ll connect the motor. I’m unsure whether to use two KITESURF-style cables to control the rudder or use a servo (in that case I’d have to change the Flipsky VX3 TX and RX, which only have one channel). Could you tell me how to start with the basics and then make improvements? What should I do for stability? Is the board sufficient or should I cover it with fiberglass?
You probably need some type of reinforcement to connect the mast. Some people do some kind of wood or alu plate or even 3D printing inserts that connects into the foam. Look around other tow builds to get inspiration and what you think fits for you and the materials/tools you have at hand.
I think for longevity its could be good to connect the reinforcement plate to a 20x20 alu bar that goes to the stern/back where you do you tow rope connection. Then the pull is transfered to the mast rather than letting the foam take it.
I wouldnt fibreglass the bodyboard. Most likely it wont adhere to the top skin and definitely not to the HDPE slick plastic on the bottom.
For rudder what do you need it for? To come back to you if you let go? No one has made a solid DIY rudder solution AFAIK. Small strong waterproof RC servos seem to small/weak.
To turn the tow boogie when youre being towed you just steer by carving left/right and the tow boogie will turn the opposite way.
Okay, I was thinking about a 150kg 12V servo for
the rudder, in case I lose the cables, but I’m having trouble with the remote control because it’s not waterproof (IP68). The model I found on AliExpress, the HotRC DS800, could be used with my FlipSky motor in a PPM connection, also connecting the servo to use the rudder. But if the cables are sufficient, maybe I’ll first do some tests with the supplied VX3 remote control. I’m more concerned about the stability of the tow boogie. I’ll definitely have to test it out.
Where do you recommend I mount the 65220 Flipsky motor with the original white propeller on my 100cm bodyboard? In the center or rear. My battery pack weighs about 14kg. What do you recommend for steering without a rudder?
Look whats new 
Solves every problem, esc built in, steering possible, i like it
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That does look interesting. What servo would be powerful enough for this? I’ve read in other posts that the servos used struggled with the power required.
I would go for something between 50-100kg. I believe that when you are not behind in a tow the force with some leverage on that connection is quite small.
And while towing yourself the servo should not be in use since you can control it from behind the tow wire with pure tension. Never tried but its logical to me.
The power supply is an easy thing to solve with an external BEC.
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