Awesome build! You might be the first DIY build to have GPS functionality in the remote - I’m very keen to see how you’ve done this and I’m sure plenty of the other DIYers are too.
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hello chris can you share your follow and come back system you did with your custom remote this is the best tricks we are all looking for 
I wonder why you found motor position to be at the rear compared to most others suggesting motors around the midpoint.
And what was your experience with the long tow point boom? Build looks great!
And tilted thrust angle and looks like a long board too! Do you find it is strongly nose down now?
Yes it works with both GPS module on the receiver and one in the remote. Communication via BLE to update coordinates. Logic etc is all done on receiver side.
By separating the batteries to the outside I meant to put them to the most outward point in the battery box and not centered like now.
Two Vescs: as the 75100 vesc are overheating very fast and the 75200 hold up nice without water cooling.
Takeoff power not measured yet, but fly power is around 29A per Motor and 29A battery amps, so more inefficient than an efoil setup.
Not at all nose down, neither in auto mode nor when foiling behind. I started testing with 0 degree tilt and it is more efficient but tends to make the board fly up faster with heavier persons. I tried different positionsvof the wood/alu broom/ profile and my conclusion is the same as with motor pod. For lighter persons it will work on the top, but the more force you need to pull it is better to counter act it by putting it as low as possible. Maybe adding more weight on the board will help and it may be possible to attach it at the top again.
Do you intent to install some kind of fairy/duct around the submerged pole ? There must be a lot of drag taking place there, especially at the front… which could be round or bevelled…
Awesome build.
Thank you for sharing.
Follow me feature very interesting
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Well, it is open in the front 
I know its really inefficient and I want to get rid of the bottom mount. I hope a combination of more weight (battery) in front and maybe little shorter mast (50 instead of 100mm) will give the best results to allow a top mounted alu profilr again.
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Yeah thats the main feedback so far, but it is only a prototype and from a hardware perspective kind of messy. But it works 
Really interested to follow/test/collaborate for this remote 
I Can help on mechanical design and integration.
You already shared it on french DIY whatsapp group?
Sweet build. Was about to start my own build, but have been debating on the motors and VESC’s I should use. I was thinking of going with two flipsky 6384’s paired with 75100 VESC’s, but now I am not sure. Would you recommend the 7070’s instead? Not really sure what the main differences are. Also, do you think 75200 VESC’s are needed over the 75100s?
Interesting on the relative positioning of the masts and fin. (picture above).
I found the balance fine with the mast in the middle, and a fin at the back. I wonder if there is a general need to have two vertical stabiliser surfaces, and in your case you have the mast at the back, in mine the fin at the back.
Also interesting that you have angled motor mounts. This was something I was hoping to try, including angling to reduce the motor induced roll. I wonder if you could remove torque roll at cruising speed by tuning the pitch and yaw angles of the motor mount (in your case dual motors remove the yaw need)
I found out that I specifically need a vertical distance between motor and alu profile where my hook line is, to be around 22-24cm to have pitch stability and enough force to get me on foil.
I have a solution with alu profile on top right now and an additional end cap with a lowered hook to regain my distance I mentioned above, again.
Will test tomorrow and post pictures.
And I moved the motors forward by 18cm. Im curious if I get more roll stability then.
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Thank you for the offer, I’ll keep it in my mind 
I do have actually two 75100s in my electric mountainboard build and they hold up so far. But in hot conditions and under load they heat up quickly. It dependas on what you want to do. As the price difference was not that much I went with the bigger 75200s.
Update
Changed motor position: 18 cm more in front
Changed mast height/ motor horizontal distance. Moved from 50mm mast extension to 80mm (no cavitation anymore)
Added at the end of the alu profile a low tow point 3D printed part for more force on pitch axis
Observations:
- the reduced horizontal distance (20cm inner to inner propeller) between both motors makes auto steering more difficult
- roll axis more stable through moving COG more to battery box
- less drag than bottom mounted alu profile
I needed around 2000 - 2100 watts to get up on foil with 1600cm² foil and 85L board.
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This is interesting, I’ve read in other places that shorter mast leads to less pitching moment, but you’ve offset that by the motor mount angles?
It looks like the motor mount angle is tilting the thrust down, (ie pushing the nose up), I’m surprised that doesn’t increase the pitch on throttle? Maybe I’ve missed something
Continuing the discussion from My Tow Boogie Build 2025:
Hi Chris - great job on the build .
i have been on my own build for a couple of years now with 47+ tests on water for perfect displacement/planing hull design in choppy conditions and have come up with a great hull …
Im building moulds for it now…
i have beaten the stability issues / cavitation isses as well as designed an effective prop guard that protects the props and allows the unit to sit flat on the ground… ive been testing it by driving the boogie up beached and boat ramps at full power - hehehehe-
esc overheating issues recently overcome using flipski motors with buikt in vesc 65220 - robust and powerful motors for sure… so far so good with these
some early version pics of the build before the prop guards were installed here - Its been affectionatly named as “The bogan”
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yes - you are correct for single motors - the shorter mast heights reduce the torque twist immensely… 160mm or a shade under seems to be the ‘threshold’ perfect single motor height…(after 15 plus live tests on just mast height for single prop units)…i can confirm…
even 20mm deeper starts to make the boogie turn towards the torque twist and 40mm deeper becomes unridable at 6kw…
my tests with twin opposing motors have shown deeper masts are fine…ive tested right down to 200mm… Then you get a new set of issues - it becomes a mast strength issue with 3d printed stuff…To beat this problem i have designed motor masts with internal stainless bolt structure supports - i designed them for maytec and flipski motors - they print well in abs - They have neat enclosed wiring and can be wrapped in carbon or glass or a really sick finish…
Ive really done a lot of work on these and they are spot on…
Im after help with differential motor set up with bremote v2 at the moment…Ive got onto jasmin directly but any help pointing me at what to do would be great its not my thing…
Im happy to share some of my designs too in return…
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There are so many unique bits to this tow boogie. Well done. What material do you use to print your masts and motor holders? Thanks