New build in Belgrade, Serbia

Hello community,

I would like to introduce myself. I’m from Belgrade, Serbia and I make an efoil board and these are some of the elements I’m currently working on. The board is made of EPS board and will be coated with carbon, the motor and ESC are Flipsky 65161/120kv and FSESC75200 with water cooling. The battery is 14p6s twice in series, ie 14p12s. For the remote I use the BREmote and the GONG Allvator Rise Alu foil in XL size. Here are some pictures of my work.


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The rocker/slope on the tail is detrimental to the start.

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Yes, you’re absolutely right, I’m noticing this now, unfortunately I didn’t think much about the design, I was looking at some already finished boards. Now when I look at the Fliteboard, they all have a sugar slope at the end and not a rocker slope. I will try to modify it before the final carbon lamination. Thank you very much.

In what way? Loads of wingfoil boards have that.

Without a slope you can glide more quickly. The slope shortens the effective length of the board. But as I said, only at startup. When flying it doesn’t matter.

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Maybe the solution is somewhere in between. Keep a smaller surface on the water and add a part that holds the board horizontally as in my old

starboard formula.

First of all welcome to the forum :grinning:

You might be concerned about something that won’t make much difference - especially now that you have glassed the board.

The bottom shape only matters during takeoff, landing and touchdowns.

The board looks thick so likely lots of volume to float you so all you need to takeoff is enough board speed to activate the lifting action of the foil.

With your battery and motor combo I doubt that reaching that speed will be a problem unless you weigh 150kg😀

Did you make the battery packs?


In fact, the board measures 145x67x11 cm, and the battery pack is 5 cm thick. It is a 14p12s setup (140A, 39Ah), two serial 14p6s packs and will be balanced charged with ISDT D2 Mark II. I also put 6S active balancers of 1A on each of them. I made six modules of 14 cells each, which are connected by copper connections. I used XT150 connectors to power the main ESC, and XT90S antispark switch to power ESC on XT60 charging lines.


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Can you show your hatch setup?

It’s still on paper, the weather is too cold to work with epoxy. I will post pictures as soon as I have a chance to do something. The battery pack is perfect for distributing the weight on the board, it is very thin and can be spread over a large surface. The idea is in double boxes for safety. Waterproof box for battery packs on one side and a similar box for ESC on the other side. My plan is to use the IKEA 365+ lids for the waterproof boxes, and an additional cover for the main opening with a rubber gasket. The setup is similar to user “ludwig_bre” with double boxes and the method of connecting battery pack to ESC.

I’m not sure I understand the layout logic you describe.

Wouldn’t putting the weight of batteries on one side vs the weight of the ESC on the other make the overall balance uneven?

sorry, only two boxes, one for batteries, the other for ESC, I only mentioned the batteries because they are convenient to arrange well because they are two modules, and they are thin enough.


A few years ago, but not any more. You want a sharpish edge so that the water releases. This shape is sticky in the water and causes the nose to lift, which is already a problem with efoils.

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I still see a lot of boards with this. I’ve never ridden one so can’t give personal experience, but KT, Amos and quite a few other big brands still have sloped tails.

Ultimately I can see it reducing the planing surface meaning you’d need to start further forward and need slightly more speed to get on the plane for the board. But depending on the foil you riding it might not have as much influence. For touchdowns it might also allow you to ‘kick’ back up.

Maybe a sharp edge before the slope though so you get release off that and then the advantage on the ‘kick’ for touchdowns…