Hard to communicate with the Chinese sometimes. The below is their last response. Maybe someone can try if the firmware is now adjustable?
Ok,pls update the firmware"B_Uart_LowKvMotor"in flash list.
We will wait for your test result.
I also emailed them a couple days ago asking if they had a low KV firmware for this motor that allowed adjustments. They just replied with the same response telling me to use their “B_Uart_LowKvMotor” firmware. Havent tried it yet to see if it is adjustable.
The firmware that works best is the B_Uart_LowKvMotor.
I got them to make a firmware that allowed the settings to be changed but it didn’t work nearly as well.
They said they are happy to make changes you need. So, I’d suggest using the B_Uart firmware and testing your motor. Then email them with specific things you need changed.
I’ll be testing my build soon. I’ll let you know how mine works.
Hi guys.
I opened my Flipsky motor. Wanted to inspect it before getting it in the saltwater.
O-ring looks good. Japan NSK bearings. I was surprised to see the wear on the shaft from the seal already. I just did short low rpm runs as needed to work out the problems with the Flier 400a ESC, and I even kept the shaft lubricated during the runs. It’s not grooved enough to catch my finger nail. But, noticable.
The motor does not look like it has any lubrication inside. I haven’t pulled the rotor out yet. I will post more pictures when I do.
So far, looks well made to my untrained eye. I would say do not run this motor out of the water without lubrication on the shaft seal.
I plan to fill mine half full with corrosionX before sealing it back up. I strongly recommend doing this.
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I don’t think that’s shaft wear. It just looks like some discoloration wear the 2 rub.
I need to treat mine with corrosion X as it’s going to be running in salt water very soon. I’ll check if there’s any shaft wear…
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I filled it about 3/4 of the way full with corrosionX. It held a surprising amount. Clearly it was flowing out, surrounding the windings. Such a small amount of open space in the motor. I would guess it took about 4 ounces.
Can you please measure the diameter and length of the magnet?
Thank you
Greetings Frank
Sorry. I sealed it back up already. But, we have two more motors. I will take measurements when I open those up!
Thank you
Best regards Frank
It looks like a small rotor , is it just a 56mm série put in a bigger waterproof can (like the 56200?)
I just reflashed my Flier 400A with the low KV firmware but now I have two problems.
Issue 1:
Sometimes the motor will not start to spin from a stop. It just makes a pulsing sound and shakes. If I turn the motor shaft by hand a few degrees and then try, it spins fine but again, sometimes it gets stuck and won’t spin until I turn the shaft a bit. It’s like it gets stuck in between poles or something. Here is a video of the problem.
IMG_4800.MOVIssue 2:
After I updated the firmware of the ESC I am no longer able to connect to the ESC through my computer at all. Ive read that many of the settings are supposedly grayed out with this firmware but i cant even connect at all (id like to adjust cell count and LVC settings) For some reason when I connect the ESC it does not get recognized by the PC software. It says that the COM port is ok and asks me to connect the ESC but when I do nothing changes. I have unplugged and replugged the ESC many times now, have tried restarting my computer, using a different USB port on the computer and even uninstalling and reinstalling the Flier programming software. Nothing has fixed it. I did try reflashing the ESC firmware back to the 16SBoat V30 firmware but it still does not recognize that the esc is connected. One time i tried flashing to the 24SboatV32 firmware and it did recognize the esc and even said something about the bootloader type, but when I pressed the load firmware button the loading bar never moved.
Anybody run into this before? Thanks in advance for the help.
The new firmware does not work with the computer program. At all. What you describe is normal.
The motor not starting from a stop is not normal. I did not have this problem. Did you calibrate your remote? I had some issues, but they were solved when I calibrated the remote. I think you hold full throttle then plug in the battery, putting power to the ESC while holding full throttle untill it beeps.
Try that if you didn’t already. Then maybe try flashing the firmware again. They made several firmwares. Make sure you flashed the right one.
If these things fail, email them. They have been quite helpful trying to get the kinks worked out for me.
Let us know how it goes.
I’ll be water testing soon. I’ll let you guys know how mine works.
I saw this with the arc200 when I switched to current control. I had to up the startup rpm settings in order to really kickstart the motor.
I suspect the magnets they have used are a bit stronger and as a result the motor needs a bit of a thump to get it started! Maybe flier need to up the startup parameters to do this. Pity the setting aren’t available in the config though.
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Thats good to hear. I was starting to worry that the ESC was messed up (add to the very long list of things I have fried or broken with this project…). I have read on here that settings were not accessible but I was not aware that I wouldn’t be able to connect to the ESC at all!
I have tried the throttle calibration thing but after plugging the ESC with controller at full throttle, never heard the two beeps from the motor so not sure if that was working or not.
Good news though! I also emailed Flier about this (Cathy there has been very responsive considering its the weekend and close to Christmas!). I asked her about the connection issue and the motor startup problem. Here is what she said:
" Hi Justin,
Thanks for your video and we can check it.
And Sorry for the inconvenience.
For this B_Uart_LowKvMotor firmware, it has fixed value,so you cant adjust the program value.
So I asked our engineer made two new firmware to you and you can update it and adjust the start power value, then test the esc.
As we havent this lower kv motor in our hand, we just use other motor to test, so hope you update this two firmware, then choose the best one.
If you have any problem or need to change something, pls tell me after your try it.
Waiting for your reply.
Regards,
Cathy"
Looks like they made the adjustable firmware we have all be wanting overnight!!! I havent tested it yet but did flash the firmware list and there are now 2 versions of the bart low kv firmware posted.
I am going to try this now and see if I can get it to work! On a side note… I will be filling my 65150 with corrosionX today per your reccomendation @Flightjunkie!
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Can you spin it up before and after filling it up with corrosionX and measure the power consumption and max RPM both times?
In theory it should get much, much worse given that oil/fluid has about the 100x - 1000x (depending on which oil/fluid) higher dynamic viscosity than air (the reason why the wet running outrunners run with 100W in air and 800W under water; both times without prop).
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Good idea. If the firmware fix works i will be sure to do a before and after test.
I have the 75/300 VESC. So I can measure the resistance / power draw. And let you know. The idea is to leave enough air in the motor that the corrosionX fluid stays out away from the rotor. The spinning rotor holds the fluid out into the windings and the rotor spins in the air remaining in the case. So, don’t overfill it.
Not a bad idea to test it. I have 3 of these motors. Only filled one so far. Lmk what specifically you want to see tested.
The beep you expect is really really low sound, a normall motor will beep much harder, so try listen very carefull. thanks for the update, I hope they will give a better firmware.
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Nice!
Well wire up one motor, connect your PC via USB and do the motor detection. Then let it run at different duty cycles (e.g. 10,20,30…) and note down the power in and the rpm in a spreadsheet.
Maybe also measure the voltage and current by a multi-meter. Since the VESC uses shunts for current measurement good for up to >400A, there might be a STD of some amps, so the low range is extremely unprecise.
Then wire up the other motor and do the same.
Will also be interesting how much the 2 not filled motors differ (like how much production tolerance the motors have).
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