Sorry, it must not easy… I have “not” vergoten 
The Timing is correct, when the engine down into the water begins too run.
Too much Timing and the current was higher and Eta goes down.
Greetings Frank
The timing is a parameter given during the design of the motor. I mean you litteraly have this parameter given with the simulations and every single electrical parameters too. The onyl people that can answer this question is the “real” manufacturer of the motor. I would put something around 5-10° on this motor, because it depends on the pole / slots configuration too.
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Dude, exact same thing here with that low KV firmware. You should send that video to Flier so they know im not crazy!
Give the boat 16S V30 firmware a shot (or the 24S depending on what your esc is rated for). I have had way better luck with that one so far.
Oh. Hahahaha 
I understand now.
Yea. I think 25° is too much. But, I don’t know.
I have one of those non contact tachometer guns on the way to verify RPM. I dont trust myself using the strobe light method. Maybe im not doing it right. Better to verify I actually have a problem before I go chasing one down. Still strange that the Maytech reading had changed though.
I have tried calibrating the throttle and reflashing firmware. no luck unfortunately.
I havent noticed it being any more difficult to turn. In order to measure the windings for a short by measuring resistance, I remember reading that a special ultra sensitive or high voltage ohm meter is needed.
The fact that @Louis is having the same kind of behavior gives me hope that the motor is not messed up.
@Louis, yes unplug the battery for sure. otherwise you can damage the esc or linker. With the low kv firmware loaded you will not be able to connect to change settings AT ALL. You can plug the esc in and nothing will happen.
To change firmware first load the firmware version you want on the firmware page in the software BEFORE plugging the ESC in. Then plug in ESC and press the load button. You can just follow the directions on the software.
@Flightjunkie I have tried all timing settings. All work and all run smoothly (in air at least). The only difference I notice with timing settings is higher max RPM. Again I have only been trying them out of the water. I have only tried 25 degrees in the water.
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What you might want to do is find out who is running the flipsky (ztw seal 300a) ESC and ask them if they can screen shot or take pics of what settings are loaded onto that ESC. The company that manufactures the motor also sells the ESC all set up for the motor. If you can get hold of those settings then try them on the flier you might have a working system.
The other alternative would be to get the ESC from flipsky and save a bunch of time playing with configs on the flier ESC.
Do you have a conventional ESC, e.g. to test the Seaking HV130A?
Even with a small 6s ESC you could at least test and set the start-up properties.
Greetings Frank
Maybe I need to go for a new esc. The flier 500A does not flash firmware anymore, Im afraid I had the batterypower connected, in the past it survived I think.
I wonder why my RPM now is only the half of what I had. Maybe something like @Jsonnett has RPM suddenly lower than before. My Windings can not have burned by running 4A in a few seconds ( video )
So, ESC I know, and many people speak about VESC these days. A lot of extra possibilities, parameters, info, data, wiring, sounds complicated, Do I need all of this extra ? I just want to run the motor. Anyone a good suggestion ? Flipsky vesc goes til max 12s and 200A max
Either a vesc or otherwise the flipsky seal 300a is specifically matched to that motor (comes from same factory)
If your looking to save money and be sure of no problems buy the Flipsky seal 300a ESC. If you wanna get the best, and an absolute overkill ESC get the 75/300 VESC.
I’m happy with my 400a flier boat ESC. But, if I had to buy it again I’d just get the seal 300a.
I bought the 75/300 when I thought the 400a flier wasn’t gonna work. And also because I wanted the telemetry. Now, I find out they both work good. So, I will build two e-foil boards now! 
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You should definitely send flier a quick email (cathy@Fliermodel.com). They are incredibly responsive and genuinely want to be helpful. Tell her you are having issues with this specific motor and send her the video you posted earlier. She might be able to offer some guidance on the reflash issue and also the more people we can get to chime in on this motor ESC combo, the more likely they will be to possibly write a firmware specific to this motor.
I did send the video to flier. I can flash the esc again. I did try the boat 16s v30 firmware and it starts perfect l. Now I only can run real low rpm. Maybe because throttle calibrating. Need more testing. Happy to see that v30 16s firmware can start the motor. Should not hard for flier to make us good firmware
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I doubt if I need to fill the motor up with corrosion x or not. Can we than dry run the motor for testing?
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I don’t understand your question.
Be careful running your motor out of the water if you haven’t filled it with corrosionX, because nothing is lubricating the shaft seal and it gets hot. You will damage the seal, and could groove the shaft.
There is no downside to filling the motor with corrosionX in my opinion / experience.
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I just spray some wd40 at the sealing now.
The corrosion x is hard to find in the Netherlands. Maybe I will order it from the UK.
So just open up the motor at the front and fill it 3/4 part with corrosion x? What sort? I also see corrosion x HD for sale
Louis would you mind to share your prop stl? I am using same motor but ESC is 200a VESC also from flipsky.
Thanks!
I filled mine 3/4 of the way full and used it that way in the ratchet strap and duct tape test ride I posted. Worked perfectly. Don’t do the HD. It’s too thick. Stick with the original corrosionX.
You can buy it in a gallon jug too. But, shipping might be an issue for you.
Hey Bender, do you have any news ?
So I think the RPM problem I was concerned about is not an issue at all. I got one of those optical tachometers that bounce light off of a reflective strip of tape placed on the prop hub. I first verified that this new optical tach was working properly by trying it on a 1400 RPM drill I have. It read about 1300RPM so I feel like I can trust it. I then tried it on the flipsky motor. It was showing about 6200RPM at full throttle (and 30 degrees of timing) while the Maytech remote was only reporting back about 2200. I went into the remote settings menu and changed the motor pole number to 3 (It was at 9) and now it reads spot on, within just a couple of RPM! I also tried 12 and 6 poles but those reported incorrect RPM readings.
I also backed my timing back down to a more modest 10 degrees so that I dont push the motor too hard. I cant rember exactly but now it spins somewhere in the 5000 RPM range which sounds right for 120Kv at 12S.
Time to get back on the water for a test but the Flier 400 with boat 16s V30 firmware is looking promising! Fingers crossed.
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