New Direct Drive Inrunner 65150

Thanks for all the explanation again. I had to tap the shaft softly with a hammer I should have said. :smile: I opened up the rear cap to see if the rotor was inside the rear bearing. All is fine now. 11s battery no load current about 130 watt full throttle without prop.

Filled a bit of course with our friend Corrosion x.

I needed to change the seal, one was broken, had a cut. It’s pretty straight forward to replace those.

I don’t know if you follow my build, therefore I post here also: log of today

Flipsky 100kv, 12s, gong L foil, FR prop.

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Where can we buy those seals?

At your local seal shop. They have a number,like bearing.

Does this motor comes with 3 seals ?

No with two. I replaced both, in the picture you see one old and two new

How many hours did the two previous seal last ? Do you think that the new seals will last any longer ?

Not many hours, maybe like 15? I hope the corrosionX will do it’s magic

Looking forward to seing how these new seals will behave with corrosionX and also to 2020 Maytech motor owners showing their shaft with the recent water-seal plus ceramic rub after 20 hours of use.

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I hit a fishing line.and the line tangled completly around and melted the sealing. What sealing do i need to buy ? Is there a number ?mine completly is melted and destroyed

Oil sealing 12x22x7
Let me try to get a pic

Thanks local shop had them on stock. I also bought the bearing. Do you heat the bearing to place it?

No. Don’t heat it up.

:call_me_hand:

Try a local Bike Store. They helped me here in my town.
Whoops sorry you are talking about placing, I thought removing

Put the bearing in the freezer for a couple hours prior to installing it, should contrast slightly so it will slip into place nicely. Works well for my motorbike wheel bearings.

Try the fridge for my gearbox bearing , didn’t work
May be a cold spray ( found in local sport shop or drug store)

Cold spray will not work. The bearing needs to be frozen to the core… at least a few hours in the fridge.

Hi.

The cold / heat is not necessary guys. The tolerance is not that close. Just use a puller like I posted to remove, and carefully tap the new bearings in. But freezing the bearings won’t hurt anything, and might make installation easier. Always use lubrication when trying to get it in a tight hole.

:call_me_hand:

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Actually bearings are slightly glued in. Also the bearing in Flipsky motor was glued a bit, I saw it after removal. Why? If you beat up the bearing you want to have the damage in it only. A “lubed” in bearing might start to rotate by itself and damage your motor housing.