I have the case printed out of petg, i ran out of asa. That will complicate things later but I might still make a mold and cast the cases out of Task 21 or simular urethane resin if other people want some (wait till i pressure/vac test this) . Intergraded tclass holder works but the fuse i got appeared to be used so I have another on order. Internal wire routing looks good, still kinda wish i would go full buss bar to tighten up the tolerances a bit more predicatably, I’ll need shims if i just solder wire to the output nickel strips.
Now onto the big problem, the QS12 connector is a bit too big so I’m looking for a connector with 200 amp capacity that has antispark built in that is a stud connector so i only need wires on one side. Anyone have any suggestions on finding Cinderella. Oh i also wanted 4 aux connectors so i can route CAN, and it should be water proof… so yeah Cinderella.
The QS8 van take around 190 amps (I believe), and is antisparc too
The QS9. had “data” cable options too (4 extra small pins) between the plus and minus.
Interesting. That being said it give me an idea. I think I’ll try to turn the Qs12 into a panel mounted connector as the qs9 isn’t water proof. I have the box mocked up but my cables aren’t quiet flexible enough as the marine isulation on them is quiet thick.
A slight upwards pitch to the connector seems to work but i haven’t mounted the vesc up yet to check clearelnce issues.
Edit: Just did a test fit… i can get the adapter to fit but there’s not going to be much room. I might need to comprimise on both the 4awg and the connector. Just not enough room as i also haven’t thought about the power switch yet…
It does get tight in those Flite-style esc boxes with 3 phase wires and two battery wires and the receiver. You may want to leave a little extra motor side phase wire length too. If you need to swap out a failed esc at some point (which is a very real possibility) having the available wire length makes it much easier. I’ve done two of these with a QS-8 connector and just 8 awg wires.
Are you making two boards? You have the flite adapter plate and then your own version. If you’re interested I also have a version of that flite adapter plate where the phase wires come up at back end instead of along the side.
I think I found my solution for the wire issue. I had some EPDM-insulated #4 welding wire left over from a solar battery install I did a while ago. It’s way more flexible.
I’m currently building one board but hoping to build another one, and I’m figuring out all of these little integration issues. It’s death by a thousand cuts, but I’m making progress. I’m 95% of the way to building the pack.
I got the mast mount from Kian, and it is very, very nice. I’m not sure about the rear entrance, but I do plan on keeping a service coil inside the esc box. Millimeters are starting to really matter. On that end inside the box i will use 8 awg, little to no need for the bigger wires on this application.
Anyway, here’s what I’ve come up with. I need 23mm of height to clear the Comm port on the ESC with the cables plugged in. I just made it, but I would like to make it a bit better. I need to know how much space is available on a fliteboard, as I want to continue to try and make this compatible for the challenge. I know @Kian made his with space to account for the top, but with the connector, I will be shrinking the opening to the area behind the connector and shifting the entire thing up to reclaim as much space as possible.
So, a little fine-tuning and some optimization, and I think I have a new test print. Hopefully, this gives me what I need so I can start to actually build the battery side. Going with a clear acrylic top, because why not? I will likely be abandoning the on-off switch on the 75200 Pro V2; there’s just no space for it, which is a bummer.
Looks nice.
We tried this some time ago but opted for the simpler solution: 2 waterproof glands.
The problem with this setup is that the soldering connectors are too close to the VESC (75200) capacitors.
Another “problem” is that it’s hard to reach when the box/mount is inside the Fliteboard.
Also, the strength of the box itself might be an issue too. Forcing the connector in and out many times won’t do it any good.
Great insights, I’ll add some reinforcements or maybe print it in ppa-cf. As I currently have it, this will be epoxy in and there is an internal socket to spread forces. I’m also using the male side on the escbox, i don’t want exposed power poles on the battery side and it makes it much easier to glue it in. Since it’s nylon I’ll hit it with an oxygenated flame first to enhance bonding like i do with ski bases. I am concerned about the amount of space in the box so I’m printing a test peice. I did move the roof up 3mm to make some more room. I have 26mm in the worst case scenario to the surface which should be enough as I needed 22mm.
I have some thoughts about access to. Thinking of adding a pull to the back of the connector. There are also some dedents on the connection to lock it, those will be ground off. As for the access hole in the board, I think it will work…ish. I’ve based that off my percision calibrated eyes so it’ll probably be off by a milimeter.
Test print is done, looks good. Printed it out of ASA and it easily strong enough with the extra reinforcements. Its a little tight inside but should be doable. But due to a ridge on the qs12 the connector had to be inserted from the inside which isn’t a huge issue.
I will be putting a screw together lug set inside to make it easier to service. Just need to fit my phase wires in here now… and a receiver… It’s getting tight but still feels doable.
