1. Fully Waterproof 6579 110KV Motor with New Waterproof Treatment Technology on Rotor and Stator.
MTO6579-110-WPC 6579 Outrunner Motor
Waterproof Rating: IP68 Fully Waterproof (can be immersed in water)
Motor KV: 110 (RPM/V) KV can be customized.
Shaft: No output shaft
Max. Current: 150A
Input Volt: 20-90V, when use in this kit with the 160A ESC and folding propeller, max voltage is 48V.
Max. Output Watt: 7.5KW
Max Torque 6.1N.M
Motor size: 65x79 mm (please subject to drawing)
Motor next weight: about 1.1kg
Motor structure: 24N/20P
Bearing: Ceramic bearings
Wire length: about 1meter
Cable Guage: 3x 10AWG
Connector: 3x 8.0mm golden connectors
Without Hall Sensor
12s4p should give decent runtime as an assist
samsung 50S were the best option for me when i looked into it a few months ago.
in 4p, you shouldnt need the max 30A discharge of molicell P42A or 45B so can go for slightly longer lasting Samsung 50S 5000mah cells that can do 20A per cell.
Not sure if I’m messing up but to kick of this I ordered my son a skateboard for $270 that comes with a 12s4p battery. OR you can buy the battery only for $285.
battery will provide continues 60AMP and 120AMP burst. It seemed like I really could not go wrong with this unless itsa scam and the item never shows up.
Links to board and battery below. I’ll report back how this works but im prob atleast a month out from getting all parts together.
Only reason I ended up with Maytech is because Flipsky refused to help me. Same person over and over that doesn’t understand English at all. I gave up after two weeks and 40 messages back and forth. Can’t imagine having to deal with them if anything goes wrong.
Hopefully Maytech works out. I had no option really.
I’m not an expert and lack extensive experience, so I rely on the collective knowledge of others—most of whom place the ESC close to the battery.
Practical considerations are the most important, but I can share the theoretical reasoning.
(I actually hope I’m wrong, and if proven otherwise, I’ll be the first to reconsider placing the ESC farther from the battery.)
Wires have inductance, and longer wires have even more. The ESC draws high current in pulses, which consist of multiple frequencies. When combined with wire inductance, this can lead to oscillations or excessive voltage spikes. Large input capacitors are added to the ESC to counteract these effects and stabilize the voltage, but they have a design limit. While I don’t know the exact limit, the fact that ESCs are typically placed just a few centimeters from the battery suggests it isn’t much farther than that.
On the other hand, the motor itself already has significant inductance, so adding more through wiring doesn’t make much of a difference. The electrical system behaves as follows:
The battery is a passive energy reservoir.
The ESC is an active consumer and regulator of this energy.
The motor is a passive consumer driven by the ESC.
Since the ESC ACTIVELY DRIVES the motor, it can manage longer motor wires. However, the battery is passive and doesn’t regulate power in the same way, making shorter wiring to the ESC preferable.
Reasons one might place the ESC closer to the motor instead:
Higher motor current – The motor usually draws more current than the battery supplies, so a shorter cable could improve efficiency (though I haven’t tested this myself).
Cooling considerations – The ESC may benefit from better cooling when positioned closer to the motor.
I used a 1,3m long cable for an electric outboard last season with a 75350 esc and 9kw 70165 motor. No issues so far. Your cables need to be big enough and the esc needs watercooling in my case. Shorter is a little more efficient but sometimes not possible and you have to deal with that always.
