My bad! I just assumed they’d always need a balance cable, by the manual looks you’re on the right path.
You should be able to charge the battery by doing a Xt60 from the charger to a XT90 to battery and leaving the BMS cable out*positive to positive, neg to neg). This will charge the battery without balancing.
Someone more experienced can confirm but you could also put a 33.4volts source through the big positive cable and black small one and the BMS will looks after the balancing. There’s a amp limit of 8 I believe for this option.
Would you have a link ?
Another track would be to remove the film, study the connections and put another heat shrink film (<1€)
*
And while you’re at it, on the battery side, maybe replace the XT90 with a AS150U which offers 4 micro pins: p1/2/3/4 for gnd, p1, p2, p3 to do external balancing of your 8s3p battery during charge with your ISDT Q8.
My adaptor lead is done for charging and it works without balancing, the Q8 charger just asked before launching the system if I will proceed to an unbalanced charge.
First test of the FauxDrive today, I will keep you in touch.
It depends on the peace of mind you want to reach.
Even if voltage balancing is better for the battery during charge AND discharge, many users here have decided to balance only during charge because many fires have started off charge due to a BMS HW issue and have burnt houses, boats, vans, … in the past. Pictures are available on the forum, fortunately not recently.
When you do the time ratio, one 1.5h efoil session per week, 1.5h supervised charge time, that’s 7*24-3 = 165 hours per week where you can leave your battery unattended (in its barbecue/amo box or fireproof bag) and the fire risk is close to zero.
Do you bypass your BMS then ?
The charging rate recommended by MOOCH based on tech sheets for Max Life / Standard / Rapid is usually 0.25 / 0.5 / 1.5 time the cell capacity. Do you know your cell reference ?
This gives a charge time of 4h / 2h / 40min whatever the battery.
If you have Samsung 40Ts, since you are 3P, it would mean 4/4 x 3 = 1x3 = 3A during 4 hours for max battery life.
I’m limited in power by the charger power supply which is only 100W so it heats up very quickly, so I charge at a slow rate of 2.5A.
It is charging through BMS.
First try this morning with 65liter board and 85cm mast and a big front wing . Fail !
speed of the motor outside water : 4000 rpm
speed of the motor inside water: 6200 rpm
Data comes from a motor wire, strange… I assumed it would go slowlier in the water.
I’m 90kg, with a 6384 120kV(50mm stator), max timing set on ESC and 8s3p battery full, I can’t stand up on the board, it doesn’t go fast enough. I managed to take a wave by prone paddling and 100% throttle + drop on bump but on flat water without paddling, impossible.
As my setup is working now with my cheap 170kV 6384 (50mm stator) set at max timing on ESC
my question is:
Is it possible to optimize the system with a better quality motor like APS or Saite (56mm stator) with a lower Kv to have the same power or just a bit more and less current ?
Because for the moment, impossible to fly my 35liters board whereas from what I see on the web it’s possible with original FD.
Changed my ESC for a flycolor X Cross 160 amp under BLheli firmware, superb ! Small, cheap, reliable and not too much heat.
Still wondering if I really need to buy another motor than the cheap 6384 from Ali. I’d prefer to have a better power for take off in choppy conditions (question above…)
Waiting now for a 3 blades propeller to have the big push also.
Hey, maybe you did not see my question, I am asking about the BLHeli esc in the foil-assist topic.
Would you be able to answer it here (in order to not overfill the foil-assist topic)?
I am very interested to know if this esc is a viable alternative to Flycolor…
Thank you
It’s still a Flycolor but an other model, with more options, more powerful than the 80amp. It’s ready to run when bought but you can set more stuffs on blheli, read about that like I did… The features I like is the possibility to limit the current and you have low tension safety slow down. The 80amp hasn’t got any safety devices.
It’s twice the price of the 80amp but worth the money, it handles better the high amps with twice the power.
, first with a 120KV and if it’s not enough I’ve another 170KV 6384 motor.
