Very nice 
Best regards Frank
The shim to provide the clearance between axial and radial bearing can be found here e.g.:
If i mount it vice versa, the tension spring would be in sea water. Thats the main reason. Another reason is that the bearing system can get hot and the volume can expand and build up overpressure and i do not want to release oil into the water. You could also try double lip seal.
Most Simmerrings are specified for 0.5bar pressure difference which is a lot. I also thought about a membrane on the closed side of the bearing system to equalize the pressure.
In my last design i had a lubrication nipple at the closed end, but it did not work sufficiently.
There are many solutions available and i am going to add more examples how this can be done.
One way of maintaining bearings which have only sliding rings is to flush it with fresh water after usage in salt water and run it intermittent while the prop is directed to ground. Then leave the water away and let it run at high speed for few minutes. Water has higher density than grease so it sinks down to the last bearing. Than the inner volume will expand by heating and press out the residual water and some grease. Stop it when you can feel the motor is warmed or if you see traces of grease. Flush again, let dry and spin. If i drive in fresh water, i just let it spin with the prop downwards for a minute.
Today the shim washers arrived and i made a first test in air. I put around 3ml gearbox oil inside and let it run dry. Sound is better than with the double bearing and swapped axial solution and also better than the original solution. Thanks a lot to all sceptics!
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Did some one had a exact CAD file from the APS 63100?
Yes, more or less exact. There are also two versions of the end bell. I think you have the opened one, while i got the closed one. Give me some days to release it in f360.
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It seems there were at least two different models of 63100 produced which caused some confusion.
If you want to use my drawing please check the diameter and angle at the hub bottom. It is defined in sketch 1.
Mine has 48mm, while nice2cu motor has 51mm.
Very Nice. Would you have an updated view of this configuration ? A test session on the water in mind ?
I will not update the drawing regarding the hub bottom as it is unclear what is manufactured. It simply shows the motor i have.
Otherwise my drawing is up to date.
Here is a list what i bought to realize it:
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Distanzscheiben 15x19x0.2 FO700 - JR-Propo Deutschland - Der Shop distance ring for clearance between axial and radial bearing.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07QC6T3WK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and/or Hybrid Dünnringlager HC-6800-2RS-GN >> Bestellen Sie jetzt! as radial bearing. If you want to use the last one, remove the “seals” to let the oil through for the simmerring -
https://www.ebay.de/itm/372839525846 axial thrust bearing
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Aluminium Rundmaterial, Aluminiumstange, AlCuMgPb, Alu Rund Stange,Rundstab,Stab | eBay choose 30mm diameter to lathe the sealing holder:
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Präzisionswelle 16mm h6, geschliffen und gehärtet, Edelstahl X46Cr13 , 24,30 € to make the inner counterpart for the Simmerring.
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Wellendichtring W-BA-FKM-16-24-5 >> Heute bestellen!, 11,88 €
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Some epoxy to glue the inner counterpart and the sealing holder.
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An O-ring to seal the bearing in the hub bottom. Like 22.4x3.55 or similar, it is part of several sets.
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some gearbox or marine grade or environmental friendly oil.
Optional
- https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Praezisionswelle-10mm-h6-Edelstahl-X46CR13-Linearwellen-geschlifen-und-gehaertet-ZUSCHNITT-bis-1200mm-16-EUR-m-030-EUR-pro-Schnitt
if you want a stainless rod or if you want to make it longer.
If you want water tests soon, you will have to do it yourself 
i am not a good driver and prefer warmer water. I let it run under water for 20 minutes at various speed to check its tight. Here you can see a part without prop at full speed under water:Dec 23, 2019 - metr.at | sGGLt
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I found a possible manufacturer for the distance ring, the simmerring holder and most important the rotating inner counterpart for the simmerring made of stainless steel, hardened and honed.
Who is interested in such a set? Please post the price you are willing to pay and the number of sets you want to purchase. Your suggestions are not binding.
At moment i need one set and perhaps you can tell us the price? 
Price depends on the batch size. The more feedback i get here, the lower the price.
Simply ask for 5 and 10 sets. I do not expect it will be more.
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… after long time waiting, i got now the anwser from my customer.
He offer me a nice solution with the axialpower to the bearings.
He find a bearing, named 71800. It have the same size 19105 like the original bearings and fit exactly.
The bearing is an angular ball bearing.
Here some Links: 71800 Eckig Kontakt Voll Keramik Lager 10x19x5 Kugellager 18999 | eBay
Kugellager aus Keramik DIN 628. Vollkeramisches Schrägkugellager, einreihig, DIN628. 71800-KER-ZRO2-PEEK (10 x 19 x 5 mm). Innen/Außenring und Kugeln aus Zirkonoxid ZrO2, | Sturm Kugellager Shop
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This angular contact bearing is a good alternative for the axial bearing and might handle the axial forces even better. The price span is amazing, e.g. SKF costs around 200€ per bearing with 12 balls and there are models available filled completely with balls.
So your customer/expert did not like the solution with axial bearing?
Hey @V_S, how did you interpret this guide to marinize your 63100 motor in your build. Was it strictly or did you bring some “novelties” ?
Nothing fancy. Filled magnet gaps, one layer epoxy and open SS ballbearings. Thats all.
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Is it really needed to put epoxy on the motor wiring? Is the coating on the wiring not enough?
I was planning to put the motor 6384 directly into the water
If it is against corrosion only… Full speed outside of the water and some WD40 
Usually bearing are of high chromium steel. I do not know if they rust easily in no salty water
Good point for the shaft clips!
Regarding the shaft I was planning to use a longer from my design… I will use 42CroM4 with chrome layer on top… It is not stainless but it should be ok