Thanks a lot for the quick response. I’ll reprint tomorrow.
Speaking about printing, did you note the print settings which worked best for each part? Specifically the fill percentage and the layer width and thinkness. The reason I ask is that I saw several cases where my prints where not coherent with the plans and wondered if I can improve by changing resolution.
Another issue I ran into is that the holes around my gearbox don’t fit the M4 rods which are supposed to be used there. Maybe my gearbox is a bit different? I can try to carefully widen the holes or use M3 instead. Thoughs?
I played a lot with setting and different slicers. @tylerclark turned me onto Simplify3D and i like it a lot so far, it comes with a template with good working setting for my Qidi printer. I printed everything 100% fill, partial infill stuff didn’t hold for me.
Regarding bolt fit - yes I carefully drilled the gearbox aluminum mount holes to fit the M4s.
Holes in 3D prints are often too tight so you need to drill them out. Easy though. I would print with 100% infil and 0.1mm layer height. The layers don’t get great adhesion with 0.2mm and a 0.4mm nozzle. 200C° for PLA and 80mm/s on an Ultimaker. 10lines of Brim for platform adhesion. 2mm Wall thickness. 40mm/min wall print speed. If you have warping issues, you can place the entire printer in a heated cardboard box.
@pacificmeister Hello!
What is the exact length of the aluminium tube? I measured 193 mm on Autodesk Fusion and that looks fine compared to what I measured assembling the different elements, but I wanted to be sure before cutting it.
Thanks!
Yes, highly recommend to measure your assembly before cutting. I had to cut a second tube because I was 1cm short… I didn’t anticipate the wire connections to take that much space, beware.
hi pacificmeister, i’ve seen in your last movie on youtube, that your board hase a safety switch with a leash around the leg. whats your solution or brand which you are using? do you cut the esc power? thanks for your help, may you can share the information.
Correct, I am cutting the ESC power with this kill switch: Sorry! Something went wrong!. Am not very happy with it though, ever since I added it I have remote trouble. And I got zapped when I touched it in the water… not sure what’s going on here, maybe the pins are exposed to the water inside the switch.
No. When the circuit opens, the ESC stops “sending power” to the motor. We have trouble finding relays that can cut the battery connection, so at the moment, we only disable the ESC.
[EDIT: Just realised that this is similar to what @MaxMaker is describing]
I just got my switch today. My plan is to use it to cut the signal to the esc or maybe set the signal value to constant zero. IIUC that will cause the ESC to stop. Needless to say, I’ll test that before connecting anything more than the motor…
@pacificmeister: I remember to have have read something regarding Parker gearbox stripped for an unwanted stop/start at full throttle due to signal loss… Is there a way to avoid this, other than swap the Gt2b for a more sophisticated system?
Another way to disable the ESC would be to set it to freewheeling instead of zero throttle. Freewheeling would eliminate most of the torque for the gearbox and stop the thrust from the propeller. I don’t know about all ESC’s, mine brakes the output shaft when a lower throttle value than necessary for the current speed is applied. Switching instantly from decent forward torque to maximum braking torque is probably the hard thing for gearboxes.
I think there are two very different safety aspects here. One is to stop the thrust if the riders falls. This is to prevent hitting the rider or anything else. The other one is electric safety for the user and electronics. This should prevent battery current from flowing to unwanted loads.
