Exact Dimensions:
Rotor: 16 Poles with 44mm diameter (including the magnets) x 89mm length
Stator: 18 Slots, 45mm (ID) x 63.5mm (OD) x 89mm length
Outer casing: 67.6 (OD) x ID to match stator x 135mm (without rear end cap and adaptor to fit to mast etc)
i bought a brand new FR motor ( not used now ) for my next build.
I know, that the FR engine is the same as lift use it.
Du you think guys, that i should modify my motor with that stainless pipe?
I’ve done some outrunner winds but not inrunners, passing the wire through the hole will be a challenge. The stator can probably be removed just by heating and pressing out the laminations when hot, that has worked for me. 200 deg C / 1h
I would try to wind each phase on a dedicated mandrel to keep it neat and pass that or make a needle for threading the wire through.
I’m not too phased about passing the wire through the hole, that I can make a number of tools to do the job.
I think the most challenging part will be removing the stator. I’m going to have to design a puller of sorts that wont damage the stator. The base of the motor unit can’t be removed from what I can see so I need to insert a puller, expand it and then pull the stator back out. Kinda like an internal bearing puller.
If you haven’t softened the glue enough by heating, it may turn out like this.
By the way, the internal diameter of the 66160 motor housing is 63.5 mm.
Ouch. Then the question is how isolated the lamination sheets are after pushing out with that kind of force. If it doesn’t want to come out, don’t force it!
What temp did you heat up to?
It’s not like there’s much to lose really. The time it would take to try rewind it in the housing would probably far supersede the value of just buying a new unit, so the way I see it is that I need to get it out to minimise time wastage. If everything fails, then I’ll just put on one of the 65162 motors and run it like that…
Hmm… it needs to be done without thinking of your time as paid wages. It’s time consuming to get it right and the learning also slows you down. You won’t win that time by pressing out the sheets, it will still be an inrunner which inevitably forces you to thread the wires.
Pressing the stator will allow easier threading both ways. If the stator remains inside, then it will be near impossible to thread one way and pull for the return.
The endplate is pressed in, right? That has to come off for you to be able to connect the new wires to the pins. I’d pop FR a question what he thinks is the way to do it.
It’s pretty hard to see if the endplate is pressed in or if the even threaded in. I imagine it would be the most sensible option. Might be worth attacking the endplate first. That way I wouldn’t need to even remove the stator.
It will show on the connected wires if it’s threaded, then they are twisted 4-5 times. I think pressed makes more sense but obviously not really a serviceable solution… it’ll be interesting to see what happens if you heat the tube and cool the sideplate and give it a solid tap.
I set the building hair dryer to 300 degrees Celsius. I don’t know exactly to what temperature the housing heated up, but it was enough to make it impossible to hold it with my hand.
That would only need about 60-70 degrees…
At 150 you would hear your skin singe. 300 solder melts etc…
The wires aren’t that twisted, but even the rotor hitting them would twist them somewhat. I reckon bake it in the oven for a while and then use a press and apply some pressure… If it goes then awesome. Just not sure if the stator epoxy would be compromised after that…
I don’t hold the hair dryer at close range, I take it away - the temperature is lower, the heating area is larger.
So another interesting measurement…
The rear of the housing only seems to insert 3mm into the housing. This would almost make me believe it is a solid unit and not inserted. Even a 3mm long thread would not have nearly enough strength.
This is what it would look like:
Another option would be to just mill the back of the housing off. There’s easily enough space and no risk to the stator this way. Then design a new rear section and fit it in.
Interested in how this one went?
It went onto a piece of paper (to absorb excess oil) on the workbench and has remained there for the last 5 months. My mill didn’t have the height to get the back off and the workshop is so cold that I haven’t bothered modifying the mill to give it the travel to complete the job.
In addition I’ve been messing about with a DIY foil drive and a new tool to remove nickel from used liion batteries.
