Hello electronics specialists,
now my problems are slowly beginning …
I am attaching a simple electrical plan from my efoil and hope you can help me.
- Can I extend the antenna cable from the receiver? The receiver is in an aluminum box and under four layers of carbon. it is not expected to get a strong signal …
- I would like to install an automatic sensor / switch that switches my water pump. This switch needs 12V. The pump makes too much pressure with 12V. How do I reduce that?
- I use the Maytech remote control. How do I get the temperature and volt displayed? Or other information?
I know that planning is very basicly. I would like to have a remote switch to turn everything on or off. But that’s still too complicated …, I think.
May be you can give me some simple advices, but don`t forget, I am very bad in electronic…
Thanks for your help!
How do you call the antenna connector? May be I can buy a longer one.
There were no manual with the remote. Which cable do I need for what?
And here the maytech user manual : https://www.mhz-watercraft.com/media/pdf/ca/97/ba/Maytech-MTSKR1905WF-Manual-V2-0.pdf
The antenna is ufl type. You have various options on the net. found some cheap DIY ones on banggood too. Look for a “ufl antenna”
Great, thanx a lot. That helps
This is the 2019-10-18 version that corrected 20+ errors of the previous one released a week earlier (2019-10-12) and providing an extra wiring diagrams at the end. @Eileen, have you released a more recent version than the 2019, Oct 18th one ?
That’s very extensive …
There are still some questions
- Yes, we used to do that on drones. Why not here ? Just get a longer antenna and place it outside the box.
- Many here are using the same system. Using a reed switch to trigger the pump. Take a look here :
You may want to change your pump if it’s too powerful.
- Take a look at the Maytech manual, @Jsonnett is implementing a similar functionality to get RPM on his remote. I know PM also is using the RPM & other infos displayed on his remote.
Yes, you are right. It is the easiest way to buy a smaller pump. But it seems to be very comfortable to switch the pump with a temperature sensor. I will try that.
But first I try to connect the pump to the 5V contact from the vesc.
Someone in this forum started the whole system with a 433mhz FM remote, but it looked too complicated for me…
…Actually it is the best way for my board, because my hatch is closed with ten screws…I have to think about
Another way would be to water cool the ESC without pump like LIFT, FR, @virus and @Jezza did. Here are Virus pictures: a tube collects water at the pod nose (or at the mast leading edge) and as board speed increases, pressure sends it up to the board deck (see posts 456 and 457 in the 65150 thread below). After cooling the ESC down, warm water is evacuated through a small hole in the board bottom (see The LIFT thread: informations for DiYers).
@Jezza, for you, how did you do the link between pod and ESC ? Rigid or soft tube ?
I’m personally running a watercooled alu block without a pump! I run soft vinyl tubing (came with FR motor) with a couple connectors to accommodate for the different sizes of tubing I used and it works great. It only needs a little bit of speed and I can see the water running out of the outlet at a decent flow. I used to have a thermostat linked to the pump to start it and shut it down but now I’m realizing that the simpler the better! Battery, BMS, receiver, and VESC 75/300 is all that I have/need in my waterproof compartment! If you have an inlet on your mast clamp, you really don’t need a pump!
Okay. That sounds great. I have the FR Mast and motor. There is a very small tube inside.
I will try it to put it direct to the watercooled alu block. Is it possible, to send a temperature signal from the vesc 75/300 to the maytech V2 ? It is better so see what happens…
Yes it is possible! On my maytech v2 remote I can see battery voltage, amp consumption, vesc temp, rpm and more
Would you have close-up pictures of the connections you mention between vinyl tubing plus adaptors and
- water-cooled alu block (ESC back I presume),
- mast clamp ?
Super, it would be a challange for me to test it.
And it’s astonishing that the water should go through this little hose … but you tested it.
I dont have pictures of my waterproof compartment and the tubing connectors at the moment, but I used John Guest connectors (reducing unions). They are push to connect and easy to disconnect as well.
So the inlet is on the front of the FR mast clamp. The tubing runs through the mast and into the waterproof compartment where it is reduced to a slightly smaller vinyl tubing that runs through the watercooled alu block (I used double-sided heat transfer tape to stick my VESC to it). Then, the tubing is reduced again to fit 1/4in dia vinyl tubing outlet. The water cooled heat sink is this one :
It fits perfectly for the VESC 75/300, I highly recommend it (paid 35$ for it).
that looks great. I have made my watercooling by myself. Your post was too late … So what, I will try.
By the way, Is the Flying Rodeo Motor okay for 14S = 51,8V ? Or better 13S ?
Yes, 14s is ok for the FR motor… They run it on 14s on the lift efoil and Im running it on 14s personally!
so I can order my battery 14s 40Ah
Is this watercooled alu block delivered with the 75/300 VESC ?
Then there is this drawback of this great passive watercooling solution used by LIFT-FR (no electric pump in the board):
For riders efoiling in salt water, this superb watercooling volume becomes a perfect salt water trap that slowly corrodes aluminium in case of unused efoil for a couple of months if not rinsed regularly with fresh water after use. Don’t know how interior alu anodisation can resist though. It could be useful to either :
- once apply a preventive coating like the Maytec remote rev2, that is conformal coating and/or Corrosion X or,
- after each session inject fresh water in the mast clamp inlet with a manual or an electric pump .
I made it by myself. I don`t knew, that I can buy it for small money…
My aluminium is 4mm thick, the plate is 1,5mm V4a. I think, it need a time to destroy.
I know, not the best combination, Alu and v4a