Sniper's build with 56104 & neugart 5/1 esc yep 120

Thank you for the flowers :hugs:

That grey potting is known to fail on these remotes.
Sure it looks ok, but others have already made the mistake.

The grey potting comes off easy. I know because I’ve removed it and replaced it with silicone. I suggest doing the same.

oooo yes in the fil of the mayteck remote i realise poor shit past…no sticky so i use mold 30 and for the 2 first hours in water during my first foil session it’s seem like to be good

Where would you get your mold 30 in EU ?

I have purchased Wagner Wagnersil 32N because I have not found the mold 30 easily :

https://www.zahntechnikshop.de/epages/Shop45832.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Shop45832/Products/42160100

Kind of the same silicone but this one has a pot life of 6 mins.

i use a similar product like this Amazon.fr
at 28 degres c it harder fast like 5 minutes ,
to slow when temperature discrease…
shore of 21 a.

I bought moldstar from this dutch website:

1 Like

Thank you, will buy form them as soon as I run out of my silicone ! Price is almost the same as Wagnersil though.

@sniper : the one you’re using is shore 21a but the moldstar 30 is 30a. I saw this product too but wanted a silicone with closer shore hardness that’s why I went for 32.

Winter is here since 1 month so got time to v1.2 with the yatch update!!


the door in wood and carbon fiber …to heavy so the v2 will have an light core

lot of weight win but new weight coming with all carbon fiber and other parts who are coming


Starting to grind
and use slim pvc for wining space

with my diy 3d holes for locking the door


first layer with epoxy need to 2 other layer…


it’s coming



and the manta

Starting pad and grips traction


3 sealed joint for the trappe

and the photo finish


5 Likes

Looks like you put a lot of hard work inside!!! Would you mind sharing a link for the stainless steal hinges?

thanks lot of nice work when you can’t ride
Yes of course this is € 0,94 35%OFF | Charnière de garde-robe à montage Invisible | En acier inoxydable, à 2 pièces/ensemble
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrWr4Xn

2 Likes

Hi Sniper, your build inspire me a lot. I will made my V1 according to your method. I just got two old windsurf boards made of Ceramic/ Kevlar/ carbon like you. After cutting the tail, how did you remove the laminate layers ( top and bottom) adhering to the EPS core? Using a thin hand saw?
Thanks image

Hey nice to see thas :v:you Can cut just the stratification Layer with a simple dremel in 3 mm and it Peel off Like a plastic cover Sand it After little bit and finish with micro balloon and époxy before cf and other …this winter i wana make a New water Pump and ESC box in full carbone for better waterproofing …i like my two box and the batterie lock After the joint because the lock IS not very waterproof …i put some Grease and it help not more water in the lock wole

1 Like

Thx. Ok i will start cutting tomorrow. Thanks for the advices regarding the microballon before layering. Did you use glass or phenolic microballon? What about your battery compartment, is it waterproof enough? I saw you have now put one more rubber seal ( three now)…

I saw you seal the mast plate/board with a 3D printed TPU gasket but how did you seal the channel you dig in the EPS core to run the motor phase wire? Epoxy ?

Yes i use glass for microballon so light …yes it’s waterproof At first i make 2 rubber seal in centre and water stand just before and come into with time when riding so i put the third seal at the extrem end and it’s good no water,but need silicon spray or marine grease to perfect it always and make waterproof axes of the lock …mine (the lock) is no waterproof but with grease it’s ok

The tpu joint is not waterproof i designed it for 3d print a negative mold to make a joint
in silicone bicoponent gel . For the wole under te board i epoxy it and termine for entering in the esc compartement with pg7 waterproof gland.https://efoil.builders/uploads/default/original/2X/1/1c1fb88ece74632bd32f40110dffe5ea659a6605.jpeg and for me this is no very beautiful so this winter i make a New box to fit in the board if you Can make the box before with vacum bag to put it in the board After it’s the best way to make a waterproof box i think🤙

Great! Thanks. So, each time you dismount the mast you have to run the 3 wires and the water pipe through the 4 glands? Is it correct. Do you know the shore hardness if your RTV silicone?

No just after the mast i have a speed plug for the water pump and 3 banana 8mm connector just with a silicone tube on the upside no probleme with water but’youncan use some waterproof plus designed on the forum …and i have long cable who can slip in the glands :wink: ,20 or 30 shore is good for the bicoponent

1 Like

Would you share pics of your banana plug + silicon tube? I am struggling with these connection right after the mast plate. I believe this connector must be waterproof.
Is there any water ingress in this area right after the molded silicone seal you put between the mast plate and the board ?
Sorry for the naive questions