Source's build log

Make sure you upgrade this thermal pad on the MakerX :smiley:

For sure. I found 0.5 wasn’t thick enough on my makerx had to go with 1mm

Pretty sure I use 1mm too just high conductivity one.

Cells arrived Samsung 40T3 x 160


3 Likes

Had a bit of sunset fun over the weekend, haven’t had much time to work/play on foil related things so was nice to get out for a hoon :call_me_hand:

10 Likes

Set up the shaping bay in the garage of the new place, the Mrs not to happy with it haha she refers to it as the “Meth den”

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New Foil board shape from the others. 1300mm long 135mm thick

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Had to make the foil box area a bit stronger
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Glued in and starting to carve out the battery compartment etc, decided to copy @Manufoil idea for Meter and receiver up front as the bord is shorter than the others now.
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Made a couple of molds for the cable entry from the mast and front compartment
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Starting on the Battery pack. 40T cells
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will update as build progresses

14 Likes

Looking good!
So you’re doing a pvc sandwich on the bottom only or both?

Just bottom for now i find the 2 layers of carbon on top to be ok on my other boards. Most of the top is the lid 15mm pvc anyways, will see what happens lol :man_shrugging:

1 Like

Been side tracked with rebuilding the Mrs 1988 Safari so progress has stalled a little but have done a few things

Battery box etc

5 Likes

I like this setup, what’s that capacitor thingy and where can I get one from so I can run off a power supply also.
I keep taking the battery out of my work van when I need to use mine :woozy_face: :shushing_face: :joy:

Haha, I know the feeling!

I got it from

Works well!




Currently rebuilding the vesc enclosure

4 Likes

What exactly does such a module?

As I understand it, for 150usd more, you can double the rate of weldings using a power supply instead of using a car battery. The PS must be carefully chosen.
With 2 seconds saved per weld, you save 5 minutes per 12s12p battery plus the time it takes to disassemble/reassemble a car battery that used to supply the “simple” kweld.
Another solution would to buy a spare 2nd hand car battery.

From the above link :

Performance when used with kWeld:

maximum continuous repetition rate with kWeld (50J pulses):
    once every 4 seconds without fan cooling
    once every 2 seconds with a Scythe Slip Stream SY1225SL12SH fan mounted (not included in the kit)
typical welding current 1100A
maximum usable welding pulse energy 100J
maximum nickel strip thickness 0.2mm
1 Like

Very nice build. I saw above you used stainless inserts in 10mm ply to attach hinges to. What type of inserts out of curiosity? Just working best way to do it for my build at the moment.

I used rivnuts, scratch up the outside of it then epoxy it into the ply

Thanks. They just extend through in the foam as well? I’ve thought about printing a mold to place ordinary nuts and set them into epoxy before glassing in board.

Yep they just stick through into the eps but not by much. I just fill them with blue tac and glass over the lot. I like the rivnut because it separates the water from the foam if it was to get into the threads. But yep any nut would work as you say if its encapsulated in epoxy

Thanks for that.

This out of a wakeboard. I haven’t found a sealed flange nut like this before though.

You use these? Rimeless closed end.

665253f9-1535-417c-8934-4aa46a086c87_Stainless+Steel+Sealed+Rimless+Nutsert

Yep thats the one.

2 Likes