I sarted with x 27 Takuma board,then custom x 26, then x 24 and my next board will be x 22.5.
By reducing the bevels, more straight rails, deep double bottom concave, concave deck, all of those things make the board so stable with the foil that it seems you can go very narrow.
Greg, thanks for the info- 22.5 in!! Thanks for confirming- I also figured the foil provides so much side to side stability that, other than flotation- seems like the width is not necessary.
Post photos and dims and review once you have the new sled in the water!
As early were discussing I’m hoping to get my wing board down to 24”. I’ve actually caught waves standing with a paddle on a 9’0x24” wavestorm foam board so I’ll bet 24” is doable.
After I saw your board I went home and upsized my 5’0” to a 5’2” which matches the original KT design.
I’m thinking the bevels on this one will be mellower to preserve the stability as I’m not really going to be laying it over just yet.
I’m tempted to not bevel it at all but I’ll likely save that for board #3 when I’m down to a narrower board where it won’t be as affected. 26” seems small but it’s really a lot of foam if you’re not too big of a guy.
You will have to try and paddle this thing for sure when it’s done.
[quote]I’m thinking the bevels on this one will be mellower to preserve the stability as I’m not really going to be laying it over just yet.
I’m tempted to not bevel it at all but I’ll likely save that for board #3 when I’m down to a narrower board where it won’t be as affected. 26” seems small but it’s really a lot of foam if you’re not too big of a guy.
You will have to try and paddle this thing for sure when it’s done.[/quote]
Come to find out, wild bevels/chines don’t decrease stability; as long as your volume is low enough that they’re in the water to the rail line. Doing that, you’re using all of the foam and all of the width engaging in the stability.
IMO, any foam above the water is useless, and not doing anything for stability. If you have chine and rails out of the water, than yes…you will have more of a canoe “bottom”, and thus some tipping and stability issues.
Here’s the “secret” bottom…
…don’t tell anyone.
Turns out there’s some other unexpectedly pleasant pluses with it, but you’ll have to talk to me at the beach for those.
EDIT: Jason, I rode a 5’1"x27"x100 liters ystdy, and was amazed at just how stable it was, and how easily it got into waves (for its size…yes, glide is decreased somewhat with the shortened length), so I think you’ll be fine going narrower. Don’t know how much narrower, but 27" was definitely more than stable enough at that length.
For me it is more interesting to have a narrow board without big bevels than wider with huge bevels. The wider the stickier. A narrow stable board is more more sensitive for turning and will be forgiving during touch down.
I like the concave deck on my boards, the thicker rails helps in choppy condition (it doesn’t sink) and under your feet it is not too thick so you have more feeling so more control.
The deep double concave and rails gives more stability, I think you can go at least 2" narrower than what you usually ride.
Thick rails and thinner deck looks like a good solution to get narrower and keep stability.
Your instagram post says dims:
5’7 x 22.5 x 5.6 - 92L
Is that the board pictured above, and is that the thickness at the rail or at the deck? The closeup of the concave looks like it might be like 1/2 in lower than the top of the rail?
How do DW dedicated boards differ from SUP foil for surf? The insta post looks like more foam in the nose, almost like a raceboard… am guessing SUP surf thinner nose for less swing weight?
My current board is 5’6 x 24 - 96L, but yes I’m trying a new one with more volume at the nose for dw. So yes the board for surfing is thinner at the nose but quite the same as those photos, a little more rocker as well.
