I just took an Efoil with the biggest battery I could find -
(although I already regret it - it’s impossible to lift it))))
Hello, thank you for sharing your large battery. A high-power EFOIL (usually 6-12KW) requires such a large battery to drive it. Of course, a large battery and a bigger Efoil board are much more inconvenient to carry around. The foil drive assist is lightweight（<10KG） but needs to be assembled on-site (5-10 minutes), and the battery life is typically 40-90 minutes. With such a large battery, even if the power is higher, it can generally last 60-180 minutes.
Haha, so true! Swappable batteries sound perfect until you face the waterproofing nightmare. Anyone here cracked the code?
Either waterproof the battery, by using a case. Like acrylic of whichever material suits you.
Or have a proper waterproof compartment.
Both would be perfect and the proper go to.
Thank you for your reply. The problem is with the connector structure. What I actually wanted to ask in more detail is whether anyone has made a waterproof structure for this type of connector. We’ve already tried many methods with glue and rubber, and short-term waterproofing is achievable, but there is currently slight water seepage inside.
This what I came up with, multiple batteries put in different cases before going out, then changed over.
Then I also thought maybe since ESCs are relatively cheap, each box has the battery, ESC and remote receiver, and only one set of plugs for the motor cable.
Of course cooling is the issue because of placement and a heatsink, but if the box surface is on the underside that isn’t an issue.
I’m still at the box on a board, thinking about my eventual in board design to use multiple batteries.
I have 2 batteries in a waterproof case in a very waterproof Fliteboard Pro board. After 2 years I never had a drop of water come inside the board. The batteries take a few second to swap just 2 wires. I can carry the whole efoil with a battery in no problems. I get 1 to 1.5 hour out of one battery so I normally only bring one to the beach because that’s plenty of time for me.
Can I take a look at how you made the waterproofing at the seal of your box?
This post here shows the case Flipsky VX3 Battery voltage display - #3 by Windigo It’s 4 L shape parts that slide together with a dovetail. The bottom and top are a sheet of ABS 12x12 from Amazon. The bottom and the 4 pieces are glued together with Marine Goop. It’s watertight enough to fill the case with water and no water comes out. My version 1 I had a gasket with like 32 screws but that was like 1 mm too thick to respect the Fliteboard 80mm max thickness. So V2 I taped the top with several layers of Tyvek tape. The plugs are waterproof screwed in and glued also with goop. I think it might not survive immersion in water for a long time but if a bit of water got in the board and it was moving around I’m sure nothing would get in. There is a 240A bluettooh BMS and a fuse inside the case, I have 2 of these and I have been using them for 2 years. So far 100% happy with them.
Thank you for your attention. It’s truly impressive that the top section has remained water-tight for two years using nothing more than screws, washers, and tape. However, our usage scenarios differ: my battery is frequently submerged in water, so the requirements may be higher. That said, seeing your solution has given me an idea—I might increase the number of screws and secure it from all four corners instead of just two. I’ll discuss the modification plan with the enclosure engineer first and get back to you with feedback.