When you foil, your COG is based around your board and feet. The easiest way to test this:
I can guarantee that it will feel much better when the weight is on the board.
Good point, but still I would argue having a light board increases maneuverability as the board can move faster without having the extra mass to accelerate, especially when doing turns and such. Also, you should get some bouncy from having the motor system and battery underwater ( not in my case as it is halfway up the mast but definitively in the @Frage system.)
Also experienced the ride experience is more fun when running 2x 6s 16000mah batteries, compared to running 4x 6s 16000mah batteries. not tried adding mass to the foil, but would be interesting.
Considered lipos, but not able to pack them in a nice manner in a tube 
if you know of a cylinder-shaped li-po that would be awesome!
Concept layed out.
test printed battery. 12s 18650 fitts inside a 60mm OD tube. alternatively 12s 21700 fits inside a 70mm tube.
the big question. Is it worth all the struggle of making the system 60mm OD? or should I go 70mm OD??
7s2p should also fit, rather would go that way…
Also hobby esc will fry your batteries, since they are the weakest link and you got no current limiter.
also you should take a look at the SK3 63xx motors, they are actually 60mm OD and so can sit flush after the 60mm tube. For these low powers even the SK3 6354 should be enough.
Which height do you plan to mount the system?
good point, but want to have the battery-esc connection in the nose cone to avoid having to build unsccesary complex battery and not needing to manage a long length of wire.
also will use a VESC based ESC with current limiting.
Hi, Yes we are going to work for a V2 - I hope to try it in spring / summer 2021.
The feeling is completely different already on the first version… more like a snowboard without the feeling to have big weights on your feet 
- I have the same feeling as a classic “foil + kite or wing…”
The main issue with LORA is the bandwidth occupancy which must be under 1% - but this issue is not clear for me because it is possible to use some module like this : Communication for realtime transmission. I think the main issue is also the maximum power that we can use on this module for a streaming mode… Keep in touch
I doubt there would be a much difference between 60 and 70nm diameter in terms of drag. The good thing is, if you go with 70mm the 63mm motor will not stick out at all. And yeah 18650s are much better use of space!
@Jezza wouldn’t it be more about the neutral point than the CG, the rider will always be standing a little forward of the CG? When you look at videos of people pumping foils notice how much more the board moves compared to the foil. Could be different when turning though…
Hi. May be with the remote I build it can work with 443mhz. What do you think about?
Isn’t lower frequency better? Search for rc sub radio. There are plenty of bands available below 100mHz.
Extended antenna is also an option but you lose a bit of simplicity
@Larsb interesting looking at the RC subs, maybe there is a path reverse engineering those, or hack the receiver into the pod. as of now, i am leaning towards running an antenna or wire up the mast. keeping it simple.
Also got the electronics today! including a spot welder:) hoping to be building batteries soon!
comparison of the stators of the 6355 motor and 5080 motor.
currently using the 4.2 flipsky mini vesc, it has a heatsink so thats nice:)
6355 ist small?
I used 6384
Greetings frank
The 5080 or 5085 stator is too well isolated i fear. The cooling of the inner windings is very bad, worse than normal stator with air cooling i guess. At least the rotor end bell has to be opened to get water exchanged. Curious to see how it performs.
Yeah this is a ROV motor. Made to be run in salt water. The stator is potted in black epoxy with an homogeneous and very thin layer on the slots, same goes for the magnets. Actually, if quantity is not a problem, you can even order a 6380 or 63100 motor sealed the same way. The factory will ask for a moq, but feasible ? It is.
Can you link the specs ? I don’t even think this motor is 2kw capable but I’m not sure.
@JetboardCologne the intent is only to be an assist motor. no need to power you all the way up.
It is very cool you are able to use the 6384motor, it must be a very convenient to build!.
I am now leaning towards using a direct drive inrunner to get the length as short as possible. but not sure of what motor to use or how to best make an impeller.
@Sliman_O do not remember the specs but I believe it is only rated for 800w,. the sealing of the stator and magnets looks quite good actually, but I still don’t love the running outrunners wet…
Here is the current battery design. I finally landed on 6S2P 21700 with p42 cells. planing on using 0.3mm x 7mm nickel strips, maybe too thin? It will also not have a BMS it will be charged on a normal balance RC charger. inputs would be appreciated!
Looks great! I think you will want thicker nickel or to double it. You will be less likely to roast an individual cell in a couple of those 2p groups if you can ensure they don’t encounter slightly different loads due to the nickel resistances since you are pushing them so hard… speaking of which… are you going to stick a thermistor in there somewhere? Might be nice to monitor/log the temps they reach under use - especially those two center cells.
Where do you plan to solder the main power leads? It is hard for me to tell with the exploded diagram.
I am also afraid of the two central cells! Not planning on having any temperature sensor, but maybe I will add a temperature sticker in the center. Hoping temperatures will be below 80 deg.
I posted that ( with not much success )
This will help you to find ( on dc amp ) the resistance ( final heat , hard for me to understand but you can get , close with watt , mass, joules and time ) , not much problems to fear between cells connections with the length of the nickel strip in fact, much more on bus bar …
As far as heat with cells , for the middle one , may be if there is enough room , a idea would be to wrap it in a metal shell that would finish around the edge of the tube (?) if that s clear …
I would use more nickel on those two ends where you plan to pull power from a tab that favors a cell. Normally something like this doesn’t matter, but I think it could help in this case.
How are you progressing with the p42a pod drive concept? It looks like a great idea.
I wonder if anyone has modified your remote to fit the electronics from a maytech remote?
