I made a lot of progress today. Most of the thick wires are soldered.
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I polished the VESC with ever finer getting sandpaper. The original looked flat but was actually very cupped. Now it should make a good surface to transfer the heat to the ESC housing.
The ESC box is full of holes now. Different sizes for different cable connectors. MY XT150 cables will fit through, but without the plastic housing. Bullet connectors only.
The motor wires were soldered on. This is AWG 8 to AWG 12. The VESC and motor both have AWG 12. Nothing I can do about it I guess. But all other cables are future proof if I get a more powerful ESC.
I waterproofed the connection by coating the solder joint with silicone and then adding heat shrink tubing while it was still fresh. I will add a second layer when longer heat shrink arrives.
You’re almost ready for water!! Even if the player will go soft with the heat… The XT90 will still connected, I guess you can run a real test and figure out later if those fancy cable organizer kept up with the power
Those flat buttons on the case, with the light around, are those watertight? I don’t remember where but I read that they don’t have a suitable IP grade…or maybe certain models don’t.
I got 90% of the electronics inside the board done. Every component is inserted into sockets instead of soldered on. That way I can change out components in case I fry them. I learned this lesson on my previous previous Arduino project.
What you see there is the wireless module, two relays, an LCD, temperature sensors and the green screw terminal for the main power switch.
I have one UBEC which has to power the Arduino and the big relay at 12V. But I also have a 5V USB LED strip. Do I need to get a second UBEC for that? Or have you got a better idea?
I could not get any small water proof buttons. A waterproof poti is even more difficult. So I will just put the whole remote in a condom. I tested this on my Ampmeter (see picture) and it works well. The trigger is very similar.
The trigger will be linked to a linear potentiometer. (35mm, 10k ohm ) A spring will return it, but is not in the CAD. There is a wall that separates the wires from the moving part of the trigger. An 18650 battery will power everything. The power switch is at the bottom.
It was difficult to place the 2 buttons at the top. I discovered that they are easy to reach if you put them on the side.
I’m using a condome with a thickness of 0.1mm (the stronger ones). In three times they broke twice (at hydrofoiling So it still is not the ideal solution.
Sounds weird but I have managed to glue fiber glass laminates to PP honeycome as a sidewall using Kleiberit 501 which a PUR adhesive. I have also manages to glue other PP products using the 501 spraying a little water over the glue line also helps the cure as it is moisture curing.
So it still is not the ideal solution.
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