Tow boogie general design

Build, Repair & Mod
29

To keep you updated, I finally increased the length of the tow bar and it changes everything. The boogie sails very healthy and I can steer from foil and from Bremote.

I noticed if I foil too much outside the wake, the boogie takes some list, and I can counter balance the list by using the diff steering. Crazy how the board can turn flat and on a dime with diff steering. No flipping at all.

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5 Likes
30

Is this white material PVC & contact adhesive?

31

It was a type of window flashing tape. I had left over from a shipping container conversion I did.

Almost nothing will stick to a HDPE plastic, but this stuff was incredible.

I’m not sure of the exact type, but similar to this

1 Like
33

Seems there are so many variations possible but this is my plan based on what i could summarise from the different tow threads and the posting here:

  • dual motor differential steering / Bremote
  • My 120x75x15cm plug should be ok as basic dimensions
  • I’ll cut and recess the box all the way to the bottom for low COG
  • Box placement on center width, center length
  • Motor pods 20cm down or more? I have a cut mast so i could go up to 30cm
  • Tow point at waterline with 60cm extension from rear edge
  • motor width c-c 30cm
  • motors on center lengthwise
  • 3-10m towline
  • fins, no fins?

Does this sound about right, anything you would change?

34

Here is my take on the tow boogie…this works really well and everything is in the right place. Needs some minor tuning but works like a charm…single engine, 7 meter tow rope, 12s14p battery. Dimensions are 130cm by 65cm by 6.4cm, carbon/ glass composite.
K

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35

Nice looking tow! Is the board diy?

could you share the positions?

  • Motor pod depth
  • Motor distance from rear (inlet position)
  • Box centerpoint distance from rear
  • tow point seems right at the back, no extension? This seems to be what differs the most on the different tow builds
36

Hi,
Yes its made from an old EPS blank i had lying about. To answer your questions:

  • Motor pod depth
  • 20 cm from base plate to centre of motor pod.
  • Motor distance from rear (inlet position)
  • Roughly half the distance of the total boad length and behind the nose rocker. I may move this back towards the tail slightly to get the nose up slightly when it planes.
  • Box centerpoint distance from rear.
  • im assuming you mean the track’s???.. these run from centre of the board 50cm toward the tail. These are aluminium T tracks built into a deck tied PVC insert i made. The ESC is about 20 cm from the tail but the idea is that the battery and esc weight is diatrubuted ti counter the weight of the motor whilst ensuring that the board remains at a good planing angle at speed .
  • tow point seems right at the back, no extension?
  • this is a flat plate which is right at the tail…@strongarm advised that a good position for the tow point is about 250cm away from the engine so i used that…i also have a bar which i can add but it doesn’t need it…i use some 5mm dyneena and attach my tow rope to that…steers no problem

Hope that helps
K

1 Like
37

Is the box located in the center of the board and there are no problems with torque?

38

@rttn … what box???..the esc, tracks, battery??..im not sure what you’re referring to
K

39

He means battery :slight_smile:
I’ll sketch a tow and see if it looks OK to all of you. Pics coming!

40

What box can affect the balance? Of course, I mean the battery.

41

@rttn…it might be useful if you then state that you mean battery…ffs
Yes its currently centered…no torque issue.
K

42

Do you have a video?

43

I wanted to clarify that I mean a video of the towing process, not a video in general.

44

This is my first draft, 110x75x15 board. Shape comes from the plug i already have.

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I’d appreciate if you could give me some pointers if doesn’t look balanced. I’m a bit concerned that the force vector of the rope cuts the motor axis so far to the front.This is sketched with a 7m rope at 1800mm height and tow bar approx 350 rearwards from propeller.

1 Like
45

@rttn …no…not currently… im busy rid8ng behind it.
K

46

If I would shape a hull, I would add real bulbs for and aft like transoceanic kayaks in order to have an anti capsize device, a bit like zerotow but rigid and with a place for the box to be fixed and removed.

But if you ride only the flat, it’s not required.

Beautiful shape by the way, seems balanced from my point of view. Keep a wide tail to avoid the torque effect, @okp can tell you something about that with his first bad design :wink:

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47

you mean bulbs for self-righting of the boogie if it flips? I can do a stability calc and check what kind of tipping angle is needed to get it from upside down and back.

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48

Your boogie board dimensions are similar to my plug, seems there is a huge difference to @KONUTZ motor position but his pull point is also more to the front.
Is it correct that the tow point on yours is 33cm from rear of board? And distance motor pod to tow point is then 67 cm? Which motor, as that affects propeller point?

49

I have no scientific evidence, only practical. With the towing point located closer to the stern, the boogie was difficult to control. I would really like to see how the @KONUTZ boogie is controlled, because I will not believe in the absence of the influence of the torque moment until I see it with my own eyes.