It’s 3 blades twin for Saite/Ali style motor
If someone is able to mod it for Flipsky, I’m sure the community would be happy 
I did check that out.
Unfortunately it is not sooo easy, as even the innermost screws hit the “ring” where the blades are attached.
I just use an adapter plate I got somewhere and modified.
http://data-x.de/adapter-plate-flipsky.stl
Needs 4 brass inserts M4x5x5
Ok, you see the problem at the outer ring?
Was not sure that’s a good idea and just used the adapter plate.
But I can probably modify the file above in the same way without much work.
I will check later this evening.
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Would you mind add it’s twin mirrored sister ?
http://data-x.de/tripales_tow_twins_01.stl
But this is completely untested and just hacked up.
Best do a quick testprint to see if it is really working.
I am working currently on my second tow boogie since my first on with a single 65161 + Rudder drives like an crazy horse. I am more fighting with it to go in a straight line than enjoying the ride. Here is what i came up with for now. I am limited in size by what i can fit into my car. I am planning to make the masts height adjustable for ease of transportation and fine tuning. Battery will be a 12S6P 21700 in the front. What do you guys think could this work?
super cool man!!! its running really nicely
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ant wait to see this one in the water… Its similar to my hull
Ive had real problems with the etow getting cavitation on one prop at about 18-20kmph - then rolling onto the opposing side…
sorry i meant to reply to another post! hahaha whata dumbass…
yeah so ive been trying all kinds of differnt configurations on the same hull… single motor, twin differential motors and i line twin… I must say i like the performance of the inline twin the most - it pulls hard and rides true in our choppy bay conditions…
The side by side twin differential steering model has almost beaten me - i keep getting cavitation on one or the other motors at 18 odd kmph - at the point where the motor that cavitates starts to ‘wheel spin’ the other motor ‘wins’ and twists the etow onto its side… my hull is self righting so its only momentary but driving me crazy!!!
Im using bremote v2 differential steering and have found that keeping the motors closer together really helps with a controllable turn arc… there has been no dofferwnce to the torque / cavitation twist issues by moving motors wider…
I read somewhere about air working sucking down access holes for wiring. … thats my next beast to address i guess
Yeah, had exactly the same problem.
To test I just put some duct tape over the holes at the top and it immediately improved.
Now I got a silicon seal around the cables and the problem only occurs when the boogie gets too far out of the water with the nose.
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ow man if that works i would drown you in beers - its litterally been three rebuilds now and im getting nowhere - thank you sooo much for worjing that one out
nose down - or flyong at speed and staying flat is definatly related to hull drag vs motor depth… if you shorten the masts you’ll get less nose lift…
Ive found the majic distance from a flat square tail pushing is at least 550mm of flat arear behind the props - batteries infront of mid point helps too -
Ive tested adding movable ballast right forward - it doesnt work as the added weight also increases the hull drag… its self defeating…
you can also tilt or shim the masts/motors aiming slightly downward…
I had air running down on one of my first bodyboard builds, left a white bubble trail behind the Boogie, at the time didn’t think too much of it.
My first inflatable version used the same fixed mast would suck the shell in tight after about 10 minutes of use due to the same Venturi effect, then the bubbles would stop.
This would have affected the efficiency a bit, but I don’t think it would cause the large roll effects that you are seeing.
Are you using counter rotating props?
Yeah counter rotating props, Ive tried both ways - ‘outward spin’ and inward spin, similar behavious.
The Cavitation is only at over about 17 KMPH - and its instantanious at that speed, the split on which side goes first is random and unmeasurable… As soon as one side cavitates, it loses its ‘grip’ and will basically over spin /over power and lose all pull, this allows the opposing prop to win the torque twist battle…
Of course I could go wider with the hull, or slow down 
But no… hahahahahahahh
Im going to go hard on a perfect uninterupted water flow… Its time …
My Hull moulds are finally finished after around 2 months of really painstaikingly slow progress, polishing, sanding and perfecting the hull plug…
With the Molds complete for the hull, the team have descided a Carbon Fibre lid was the go for maximum stiffness for the top seal. The space to add battery cases / tech is immense - You can fit anything you like inside with 450 x 1500 x 200mm of internal space (rolled on the dec from 140mm up) -
We tried a Big plastic box that was 300mm x 140mm x 930mm and it drops in nicely…
Some other random sizes tested listed on the carboard pics below for easy drop in.
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Well I hope it is only that, but looking at your setup, -
that is about 6000% more refined than mine, so probably not.
I think my design was also particularly bad, with an open 30mm tube going from top to bottom and then inside the mast to the motor
Creating a direct tunnel for the air to go from top to the prop.
Have you considered placing a camera under water to see what is happening?
Saw this in a YouTube video, where he would do this to see how the different propeller designs would perform.