So now I’m trying to find a solution that won’t require me to cut the delaminate part and reglass it. I saw online that I could drill a few holes and have some epoxy flow through those holes and penetrate the delaminated area. Let me know if this is a good solution in this case. Also, feel free to mention any other possible solution to this delamination. I really want to get it fixed for good! Thanks!
This can be a solution if you use foaming epoxy resin. But considering the picture the best is to cut the fiber that is hollow and fill with epoxy resin and at the same time lay a new layer of fiberglass or carbon.
You should find out why it is delaminating.
I really wonder why it comes off from the wood. Normally the wood should be damaged before the glass delaminates. Seems your wood is wet or treated with something?
If it is like this the new glass layer will delaminate again.
You can use a dull syringe and inject liquid epoxy below the de laminated fiberglass, drill small injection holes, you will be able to see the epoxy fill the gaps again.
But you should also find out why it’s delaminating.
If that’s ply there’s no doubt it has water in it which caused delamination.
My solution would be to cut the ply out otherwise this will repeat again at some stage.
Replace the ply with either carbon or g10 and then glass over it.
This is a ride engine track box so it is made of high density foam with two hard plastic tracks. Initially when I glassed over the whole track box, I filled the tracks with candle wax so no epoxy can get into the track. Then, I cut the tracks open with a router and while doing that a very small part delaminated. I tried to seal it but it got worse after riding on the water however I’m not sure if water penetrated underneath (it still feels flush and if I press on it there is very little change). My guess about why it delaminated is that the plastic track provides very little adhesion compared to regular foam.as you can see from the picture, most of de delamination is around the track. Also, there is an exposed edge where I cut open the tracks which make it vulnerable.
Do you think the epoxy would flow well enough underneath the fiberglass? I’m afraid that by doing small holes, the epoxy won’t flow very far and I’ll have to make a lot of holes and maybe at that point it would be best to cut it out and start fresh?
I would take the fibreglass off the track box, just removing it by hand, but only off the track box, not the board, then score the surface of the track box with low grit sand paper of knife. Then put 2 fresh layers of glass on. The extra layers on the bottom of the board will be good for strength of the board and you will hardly visually notice any surface deviation.
Yeah I think that’s the best option. If it was me I’d add some aluminium stringers beneath the surface while you’re at it, do you have a router? I think the track box will rip out pretty easily under shock.
you could add an aluminium reinforcement like this under the bottom:
Just router a slot for it and fill the slot with epoxy, then glass over, since the bottom of yours would be curved, go for maybe 2, 40 or 50cm lengths, next to each other, near where the foil mounts.
Maybe someone could confirm this, the track boxes could be stronger than I think, I’ve never used one.
I mean remove the fibreglass that is covering the whole surface of the track box, it wouldn’t hurst to score/scratch the high density foam either for better adhesion.
Normally it is necessary to connect the deck of the board with the box us rail with carbon tubes type kite and to fill these tubes well with epoxy resin when installing the box. This technique was given to me by the Bear the boss of Gong foil…
Make a liner between the Box and the rails with two layers of fiberglass +microballoon and finally cover the Box with 4 layers of fiberglass including one layer of carbon.
So I decided to add stringers to make sure the track box wont go anywhere. I have also decided to fill the tracks with resin and permanently fix the nuts in the tracks so the box won’t be as vulnerable to delamination due to open tracks. However, I wont have enough resin research epoxy resin to fill the tracks/install stringers and then laminate fiberglass over it. So my question is: Can I use polyester resin to fill the tracks and install the stringers before laminating the fiberglass with my resin research epoxy over everything? Will they react badly together? I want to make sure that the cured polyester resin won’t react and provide enough adherence when in contact with the resin research epoxy. Let me know your thoughts!
There’s no benefit to filling the tracks, it won’t add any strength. In fact which that much resin there’s a risk of exotherm when the resin cures. If you are worried that the epoxy is not bonding to the track itself just give it a light sand. My guess is that you initially had some sir bubbles that then let water in.
You definitely can’t use polyester resin on EPS as it will eat the foam. You also don’t want to mix it with epoxy.
My advice is similar to Jake’s. Try to remove fibreglass off the box. Use a router if necessary. Then install your stringers. Sand everything properly and remove any dust. Then glass over everything.
I’m not filling the tracks for strength purposes. I want to fill them with resin because 1. I want to permanently fix the nuts in the tracks and 2. I want to fill the tracks and not reopen them as the seam it creates makes it too vulnerable for delamination and I can’t move the foil because of the wires anyway so there is no advantage of opening the tracks. I will just drill 4 holes to allow the screw to secure the mast base plate.
For the rest, I’m planning to add stringers, sand everything then glass over everything like you and @jakebarnhill1 recommended. Beside resin, can you suggest another material/substances to fix the nuts and fill the tracks with?
This isn’t the issue. I have loads of boards with tracks and have never had delamination issues. My guess is that there may have been moisture on them or something else when you initially laminated the board. Alternatively if the board has even been left in the sun then that will also happen.
Regardless, I can’t move the foil on the tracks since the wires need to go through a hole in the board. There are no advantages to have the tracks open. Therefore, I would rather not risk it and close the tracks permanently. I’m still weighting my options as to how to proceed which is why I’m asking if you may know a solution other than resin as a filler.
Mix epoxy with another filler like microbaloons or something. But I wouldn’t chance using polyester resin just in case it comes into contact with the foam.
Agreed with @Jezza, if you sand the boxes before glassing, they shouldn’t determinate. By keeping them open, you can change the nuts in case you crossthread one for example.
If you really want to fill them, you can used polystyrene as a filler (i use to keep some “dust” for that after sanding the blanks…), it will add a lot of bulk but not much weight, and will keep the resin avoid heating too much when curing…
