Got a quick question regarding escs. Lets say its rated 100A. Is that considered as an input current or motor phaze current? Or is it just marketed as input current with(out) phaze monitoring/limiting? The way i understand it, esc is basically dc-dc switch so i am guessing there is different amount of amps on “both ends” of esc. Could that be a reason for some of unexplained destruction scenarios? I know there should be spec sheet but we all know not every1 shows it.
On the vesc + metr for your cellphone you can track battery and motor current, you will see that motor phase current is often much higher than battery current.
So I think that the rating is battery/input current and that the high phase current driven by our large props may kill esc’s.
Still there is probably many other ways that is more likely to kill esc’s. Water ingress, poor soldering/connectors, uneccisary shaft friction, mismatch prop size, fake esc’s, no heat cutoffs, poor cooling+++
Our seaking is still going strong (1.5 year, 80h+) , I was out in the surf with it the other day. We have also done hydrofoil tow ups with it
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Phaze currents strictly depend on the motor type wiring right? (If we disregard copper/friction losses, “human error” and possibly bad esc build aka ideal scenario?)
This link is dead unfortunatly
Option: Castle Connections 8mm Bullet Connectors
Claimed to be 300 A continuous rated, Amazon, 15 bucks per 3 pairs.
5.5 mm version shown with the 8mm for reference (rated at 170 A)
I was talking to the guy at Reacher Tech who shed some light on the situation.
Basically its the way Flier mislead unsuspecting customers like us.
For example, my 3-16s 320A ESC is not rated for both at the same time. Its 320A rating is on 3s! so its only rated for around 68A on the 12s im running.
This might explain why my 68A 12s setup is running ok when I pull 50A constantly but guys pulling higher amps direct drive etc, are blowing them up.
Seems to make sense to me.
Support from Flier told me that I should not exceed 120A continuous current on my ESC 3-24S 240A.
So I hope it will survive under load…
I use those bullet connectors. They do not fit through PG9 watertight cable glands though. Kinda problematic! ha
That can explain why we burnt 2 of these “300a esc” and one 180…
Btw we had an amp logger to it we where using 120 amps battery for few seconds and then 50-60amps continuous.
The overtemp protection does not really work.
The over temp protection seems to be a bit hit and miss. Luckily mine works really well. Otherwise I think I would of fried it when I was getting my water cooling to work properly.
Hi,
I got ESC 130ahv and the thermal protection works fine for me. I got a thermal couple on the controller with a digital display so i can see temp when it cuts off. Above 70 degree it cuts off and son as it reduces to below that it all kicks back in. i got no water cooling at the moment.
Hey Guys,
I think i might have the same issues as posted in the 1st entry.
My ESC motor phase wire burned straight off (unfortunately on the 1st real ride. But atleast after I flew a few times 
). The ESC does not respond anymore, but apart from the burned of wire no really damage signs. I guess its dead.
But are there ways to check if the engine is fine? I have the PM setup so difficult to disassemble. THere are not much signals of water inside as nothing is dripping from the motor pod, but can’t tell for sure.
I used my continuity meter on the phase wires and get a continuity on 2 phase wires. The 3rd isnt. Is that bad?? Can use some advise here
Anytime only 2 of 3 motor phase wires are working it tends to blow the ESC. Not sure the science behind it but it happened to me too.
Hi Tyler, Thanks for the feedback. I don’t have a spare ESC so can check if it works or not. Better order a new ESC quickly. THe weather here in holland is perfect for foiling, so don’t want to miss out haha
O i think i miss understood you. You mean it burns because only 2 of 3 a working right? Because I think you need to have continuity between all 3 phase wires, testing 2 at the time.
Which would mean I have a shorted out motor 
I made this post:
And ended up getting 2 Flier 400a ESC’s. They both work great. I think it might actually be overkill so I also have a Flier 200 but I have yet to try it.
With all the SeaKing fails I’ve seen, I’d abandon.
There are a lot of fake seakings online and offline. Have that in mind.
Turns out one of the motor wire connections in the pod (I used the regular 8mm connectors, but glued in to place) came lose. Had to saw off the alu pipe to reach it. Turns out the pod is quite water tight so far, so thats a plus. Gonna print a new mast clamp and this time solder the motor wires together. Hope to receive the flier 320A ESC in a week or so.
I just burnt out my SeaKing ESC. Totally my fault. The motor was prevented from spinning in the pod by the duct which was fastened to the foil. When the duct broke, the motor spun and twisted the wires, causing a short. Not sure if I can save the motor. I will have to solder new wires onto the windings.
Sure are a lot of opportunities to learn by mistakes.Can be really frustrating, but I am too stubborn to give up.